February 22, 20232 yr comment_650567 It has been over 10 years ago since I did this but as best as I can recall I installed the grommet and then fed the in-cabin connectors and wires through it one-by-one. No removal of connectors from the wires. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-650567 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 23, 20232 yr Author comment_650577 @Namerow Now you tell me 😉 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-650577 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 23, 20232 yr comment_650585 usually shortly heating the grommet with a heatgun helps making it soft, so you can put it in Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-650585 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 23, 20232 yr comment_650586 On 2/21/2023 at 1:59 PM, Namerow said: I wonder whether they were able to install the wiring harness at the factory with the firewall grommet and end connectors already in place? If so, I'd like to know how they did it. YES, because it was new, and all soft and flexable😄 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-650586 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 25, 20232 yr Author comment_650680 So I spent a little more time on the car today I had this filler neck and it was stiff but not pliable. So I soaked it for about 36 hours. Made all the difference in the world. Really amazing... Turns out it needs to be pretty pliable to get it installed Who was looking for these? Also I have this selection of gas pedals: Which was is correct for my 71? 2 have plastic pivots and one has a metal pivot. The one with the metal pivot is also shaped a little differently Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-650680 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 26, 20232 yr comment_650685 Gas pedal? The best one for heel and toeing. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-650685 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 9, 20231 yr Author comment_652301 So I started pulling the rear body harness in. There are two branches that go up. One for the dome light. One for the defroster. The dome light is self explanatory, but how does the defroster route? All in the structure or only internal until its under the plastic? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-652301 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 9, 20231 yr Author comment_652302 Also, there is a ground to the chassis above the fuel tank. Is dielectric grease the way to go on this connection or copper antiseize? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-652302 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 9, 20231 yr comment_652311 6 hours ago, Patcon said: Is dielectric grease the way to go No.. dielectric grease is to keep water out of electric connectors.. it does NOT have conductivity.. it isolates! Coppergrease does not but if it's the right stuff to use? I would make the connection very clean and after connecting leave some coppergrease on it. (so not in between the connecting parts.) maybe google for some electric conducting stuff? Maybe you could use some petroliumgelly like you do on battery poles to keep them from oxidating? (petroliumgelly does also not conduct electricity.. so not in between the connectors, on a battery pole it's different as the clamp wil make contact through the gelly as it's high clamping force.) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-652311 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 9, 20231 yr comment_652314 Hey, Charles, i just took a look at your picture on the frontpage of your topic and i thought it would be nice when you have your project finished to take a pic like that and put it at the end of this story accompanied with the first pic! We might get to see some gray hairs? (or even yellow hair from the paintbooth! 😁 ) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-652314 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 9, 20231 yr comment_652323 3 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said: No.. dielectric grease is to keep water out of electric connectors.. it does NOT have conductivity.. it isolates! Coppergrease does not but if it's the right stuff to use? I would make the connection very clean and after connecting leave some coppergrease on it. (so not in between the connecting parts.) maybe google for some electric conducting stuff? Maybe you could use some petroliumgelly like you do on battery poles to keep them from oxidating? (petroliumgelly does also not conduct electricity.. so not in between the connectors, on a battery pole it's different as the clamp wil make contact through the gelly as it's high clamping force.) Petroleum jelly in my opinion only makes it worse, wd40 works better then Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-652323 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 9, 20231 yr Author comment_652324 Yeah, that would be a nice picture to end with. Definitely getting gray. Might get my kids in that one too. They've changed a lot too Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?&page=55#findComment-652324 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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