1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Patcon]

I also sprayed the rear tail light panels with clear matte today per Jim A's recipe. I worked on the trim for those panels also. I removed it to make it easier to paint them and polish the trim. We will see how hard they are to get back on. An interesting note, these piece are carbon steel and must be plated. They are magnetic. I was surprised they weren't stainless!

I also got the last vent line at the tank worked out by lining it with a spring. I then got the tank straps installed and the filler neck all setup. If I could have found all the clamps I needed I would have gotten the vapor tank all taken care of too

[Patcon]

I have a question. Is there a way to identify a factory Nissan windshield gasket? I have a used gasket thats still pretty pliable. I would clean it up and use it if I knew it was a Nissan part. Otherwise, I will buy a clean new one...

[kats]

On 10/2/2023 at 10:42 AM, Patcon said:

I have a question. Is there a way to identify a factory Nissan windshield gasket? I have a used gasket thats still pretty pliable. I would clean it up and use it if I knew it was a Nissan part. Otherwise, I will buy a clean new one...

I can’t tell “how” with my poor English skill but I am sure we can tell the difference if we have both in hand. I see the difference on the surface of the rubber, it looks different and feels different in touch. 
But some reproductions are useable without serious problems I think. 
 

Kats

[Patcon]

7 hours ago, kats said:

I can’t tell “how” with my poor English skill but I am sure we can tell the difference if we have both in hand. I see the difference on the surface of the rubber, it looks different and feels different in touch. 
But some reproductions are useable without serious problems I think. 
 

Kats

Thanks Kats

I assure you, your English is far superior to my Japanese!  😁

[Patcon]

So I started on the emergency brake cable redesign. I've been procrastinating on this

So I pulled it back out of the car, which is a pain with the differential in place!

Cut off the factory end

Welded the pin

When I welded the back side of the pin, I burned through the cable.

So I had to redo it

 

[Patcon]

I worked on the headlight buckets some more

A little heat and the caps will come off

Then I noticed that the buckets were different. The older ones with the caps and then I assume a newer style that the plastic adjuster thing is all one piece. I tried to get some of these out of the buckets but that wasn't going to happen with out destroying them!

[Captain Obvious]

43 minutes ago, Patcon said:

When I welded the back side of the pin, I burned through the cable.  So I had to redo it

When you did it a second time, did you weld both sides of the pin, or just the far side from the cable?

Also, did you consider silver brazing the cable into the pin? I think I would have tried that.

[Patcon]

Silver brazing might work. Especially if you dish both sides to lock it in. I only welded the back side on the second attempt. It seems to be pretty strong but it's going to see some significant force, so we'll see ...

[Patcon]

I put the trim back on the rear finishers

For the most part it went on by hand. I tapped it a little with a soft rubber mallet.

Thanks so much to Jim for the excellent recipe! @jfa.series1

 

[jfa.series1]

2 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I put the trim back on the rear finishers

For the most part it went on by hand. I tapped it a little with a soft rubber mallet.

Thanks so much to Jim for the excellent recipe! @jfa.series1

 

Awesome work Charles. All the credit for the paint products selection goes to @CanTechZ who did all the testing to make this possible.

[Yarb]

Does the paint follow up the line for the 260 & 280?

[Patcon]

So I worked on tar mat some. I used the Wurth tar mat @Zup recommended in another thread. One box is just enough to do the tunnel. I will have to get some more later for the floor boards and hatch floor.

The patterns I used are in the resource area

Here is  the rear pattern over the mat. I layed the mat out and used some clear tape to seam them together. Then I used a few pieces to tack the pattern down.

I used this ruler that has a brass edge to help on the long straight cuts. Everything else was freehanded

All cut out

This is installed. I have that roller tool to get it stuck down properly. The film on top has been peeled since then. I didn't take any pictures of that

This is the larger front piece

I had to scrap out some areas on this. If I were going to do this again, I would be more selective on where I used the scrap. My scrapped out section was near the top edge of the tunnel and that made it difficult to hold together on install.

I used a blue tape line to mark the overlap point

Edited October 29, 2023 by Patcon