Well that stinks!!

7 hours ago, Patcon said:

I'll procrastinate on this for a few days probably.

I Sure hope so!  (I want to be in time with my solution! 😉 )   Don't even try to weld it up side down.. it's going to be a mess even when your a pro welder it will be very difficult.. better take a strip/piece out of it and make the weld from the top! (Clean the paint around it thoroughly)

Also use a cotton towel that is moist to cool every spotweld you do.. take your time and it will be good! Use 0,8 mm steel.. sorry don't know what thickness it is in your measurements..)

Edited April 28, 2024Apr 28 by dutchzcarguy

1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I Sure hope so!  (I want to be in time with my solution! 😉 )   Don't even try to weld it up side down.. it's going to be a mess even when your a pro welder it will be very difficult.. better take a strip/piece out of it and make the weld from the top! (Clean the paint around it thoroughly)

Also use a cotton towel that is moist to cool every spotweld you do.. take your time and it will be good! Use 0,8 mm steel.. sorry don't know what thickness it is in your measurements..)

That would be 0.030" in freedom units. 😁

11 hours ago, Patcon said:

Well I messed with the hatch hinges today.

Big sighhh... 😞

I took the bolts out and pulled the hinges, backer plates and the hinge cups out. I cleaned off the excess sealant and set the hinges back in place. At the the lowest location here is the RH hinge all the way down...

Edge of the bolt holes almost even with the gutter

Here's the LH side

No where close! That's weird...??

It's hitting the pocket.

The RH pocket

The LH pocket

Different locations!!

Look at the panel edge under the gutter

RH

LH

The car was not assembled even on both sides from the factory!!

So I took the die grinder to it and clearanced it.

Then drove it down some more with a punch and hammer.

Unfortunately, I have a hole now. So let's weld on our nice yellow car. 😞

Backed it with a piece of copper. I'll procrastinate on this for a few days probably. Will be an awful welding position and will probably get burnt some.

As I recall I had to weld one or both of the hinge tabs back to the hatch years ago when I was doing body work. I'm betting that was the LH side that broke from being flexed back and forth from years of use. I could go look but I'm too lazy to dig through 80 pages of posts.

So note to others check these pockets for clearance before you get this far along. 😉

 

 

But it hurts so good.

Well if you are done with laughing, take a look at this comedians answer.. hahaha...

 

On 4/27/2024 at 9:16 PM, Patcon said:

 

Will be an awful welding position and will probably get burnt some.

 

 

 

And the chances of getting a good weld on that area will be slim, have you considered a patch and panel bond?

Looking at the pic from the top side I don’t see why it would be so difficult to weld. Use lower heat to minimize burn through and allow cool down in between passes.

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

And the chances of getting a good weld on that area will be slim, have you considered a patch and panel bond?

I haven't, I figure it just needs to be close to water tight. A little seam sealer will take care of the rest

15 minutes ago, bluez said:

Looking at the pic from the top side I don’t see why it would be so difficult to weld. Use lower heat to minimize burn through and allow cool down in between passes.

This is my plan. We'll see...

I got the clutch master in today. I need to check pedal height...

I went down to the parts yard and took a clutch pedal stopper off of "Rust in Pieces"

\

There are locating dimples in the floor board to locate this part. You can see them from wheel well side.

Short edge is the top

My favorite tool for spots welds

Bead blast

Started welding up the hinge pocket

 

 

 

What happened to the original pedal stop? I had to add a hood hinge latch on my FJ40 restoration after it was painted. I used some 3M panel adhesive that I got from a body shop. It hasn't budged, that stuff is strong. But, I think a couple of spot welds in that area will not be noticable as the carpet covers it.....and who (besides us) lays under the dash!

I had to remove my clutch master and adjust the booster rod a couple of times, as the aftemarket master was way different. 

 

@Patcon Were you able to find a replacement rubber piece? Looks new from the back side.

1 hour ago, emccallum said:

What happened to the original pedal stop? I had to add a hood hinge latch on my FJ40 restoration after it was painted. I used some 3M panel adhesive that I got from a body shop. It hasn't budged, that stuff is strong. But, I think a couple of spot welds in that area will not be noticable as the carpet covers it.....and who (besides us) lays under the dash!

I had to remove my clutch master and adjust the booster rod a couple of times, as the aftemarket master was way different. 

 

The car was originally automatic. So it wasn't there. I thought I would use panel bond too or maybe epoxy. It's never going to really get pulled on, so it aught to be fine.

1 hour ago, Yarb said:

@Patcon Were you able to find a replacement rubber piece? Looks new from the back side.

For the clutch pedal stop? No I just bead blasted it all and let it ride. It has a fresh coat of satin black on it now.