1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[inline6]

That is a later dash board for sure.  If the early oil pressure gauge was swapped in (looks to be the case) than I would think the dash portion of the harness would be original to the car as well.

There are part number tags attached to the harness on the right side corner, several inches before the connectors.

Edited June 1 by inline6

[Patcon]

I saw atleast one of those today. I will look tomorrow and check car parts manual. I was hoping the same thing based on the 140psi gauge. Although the cigarette lighter location makes me wonder.

PS my daughter gets married next weekend in Ohio. I hope to have time to come visit shortly after that

[bluez]

Original cracked dash was probably replaced with a later one. Back when dashes were readily available.

[Namerow]

When assessing the dash wiring harness options, watch out for the Combination Switch.  According to my records, the design was changed starting in Oct-1971 to accommodate Nissan's parallel decision to change the headlight switching strategy from ground-switched to positive-switched.

Note also that the fuse block's wiring harness changed from from 'long pigtail' to 'short pigtail' at the end of Jan-1971.  I expect that the dash wiring harness would need to have been changed to match.

What transmission does Lily have - 'Type A'? or 'Type B'?

p.s. Congrats on your daughter's wedding.

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Namerow said:

When assessing the dash wiring harness options, watch out for the Combination Switch.  According to my records, the design was changed starting in Oct-1971 to accommodate Nissan's parallel decision to change the headlight switching strategy from ground-switched to positive-switched.

Note also that the fuse block's wiring harness changed from from 'long pigtail' to 'short pigtail' at the end of Jan-1971.  I expect that the dash wiring harness would need to have been changed to match.

What transmission does Lily have - 'Type A'? or 'Type B'?

p.s. Congrats on your daughter's wedding.

I think I am going to take the ignition switch and combo switch all together since I know where that ignition key is 🙂

I have a 5 speed that I took out of the brown Z that will go into Lily. Haven't really ever taken the time to ID it

[Patcon]

So I need someone with the factory parts book to check something for me.

I looked on car parts manual but they don't show a corresponding number for these dash harnesses. They are close to the early car dash numbers but not exactly the same.

24013-E4650 & 24013-4651

[jfa.series1]

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

So I need someone with the factory parts book to check something for me.

I looked on car parts manual but they don't show a corresponding number for these dash harnesses. They are close to the early car dash numbers but not exactly the same.

24013-E4650 & 24013-4651

Charles,

I just pulled out my hardcopy of the parts fische that I bought in 1999. There is no reference to either of these P/N's for the '69-73 cars. For manual transmissions thru 12/70 it was E4600 and E4601; thru 08/71 it was E8300; thru 12/71 it was E8800; thru 06/72 it was E8802; thru 09/72 it was N3300; for the remaining '73's it was N3325 for "A" (?) and N3326 for "B" (?).. Similar changes for cars with the auto transmission.

Jim

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said:

Charles,

I just pulled out my hardcopy of the parts fische that I bought in 1999. There is no reference to either of these P/N's for the '69-73 cars. For manual transmissions thru 12/70 it was E4600 and E4601; thru 08/71 it was E8300; thru 12/71 it was E8800; thru 06/72 it was E8802; thru 09/72 it was N3300; for the remaining '73's it was N3325 for "A" (?) and N3326 for "B" (?).. Similar changes for cars with the auto transmission.

Jim

Fascinating, it looks like it's got a 9/70 manufacture date. The Exx50 makes me wonder if it was a small revision somehow?

[jfa.series1]

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

Fascinating, it looks like it's got a 9/70 manufacture date. The Exx50 makes me wonder if it was a small revision somehow?

Any chance they were from a non-US spec car, i.e. Canada? The 4650 and 4651 might reflect the same changes as 4600 and 4601. Just a WAG!

[Patcon]

I don't know. Maybe somebody with a more complete parts database will chime in. It would be nice to know but for now it appears to be an original harness in a car a month earlier than Lily. The brown z was my daily driver 30 years ago, so I should be able to get Lily going with the donations

[Patcon]

So here is the frame stripped down. Later I shot some rust converter and then some black around the defrost area

So to thin down around the glove box area. I used a Rolok instead of a razor blade. Makes a mess but very quick

Be careful when working behind the indentions that mark the glovebox outline. It's easy to cut through. Backlit...

So evidently the dash I pulled from the brown Z was a later pad and frame with the early harness in it. The dash cigarette lighter was just mounted to the dash. Not wired up.

The replacement dash pad itself has been a great disappointment!

For starters, I had started working on the dash and had the pad mounted to the frame when I noticed a little wavyness in the top of one of the pods. When I messed with it, I realized it was hollow!

I contacted JDM-CAR-PARTS and was cited their policy of 14 day return window. It had been well more than 14 days. I was also told it looked like I'd had it leaning up against something. In actuality, I pulled it out of the box when I got it. Gave it a quick look over and put it back in the bag and original packaging until I got ready to tackle it. I made it clear in a follow up email that I didn't want to return it but I would like the "blemished" price because that's what it is, but I got radio silence. I also don't like how much room is around the gauges. They don't fit super snug and I found out yesterday the glovebox lock doesn't center in the dash hole. I will have to clearance the lock mounting holes to shift it over, but the glovebox latch might not work if I do that. Overall, not impressed!!!

I'll make do for now and it's better than what I had. If I were doing it over I would buy the more expensive dash. You would think these are all made at the same place in Asia, but maybe not. I don't recall other members that have used reproduction pads having these kinds of issues.

Here is it's current state of reassembly

Edited June 23 by Patcon

[Patcon]

Cody worked on the brake booster some. I found a longer clevis. It also has a larger diameter pin which fits better in the pedal

This brought the pedal height up and against the brake switch

We messed with quarter windows last weekend. It was frustrating. Probably one of the tougher jobs to do, especially by yourself and get them right.

We did get them installed last weekend. I wrapped a string around them to make it easier to get the lip turned out properly.

But at the back of the drivers side window, it got really tight to the body and the seal ripped instead of turning out.

On the passenger side, I wrapped the seal too tight to the glass and it didn't seal at the back corner of the glass

Fortunately for some odd reason I had an extra set of quarter window seals. So this week in the evenings I redid the quarter window seals.

We put them back in yesterday

They both pretty much seal but they're still not quite right.

The passenger side gap closed up but the seal turns in a little at the back becuase it doesn't have enough pressure on it to make it flair evenly.

 

The drivers side does the same thing but in a different location. I visited Inline6 this week and saw his immaculate car. He said he used a slice of a bondo spreader to work the lips out from the inside of the car. It is flexible to put it down between the glass frame and the body to push from the inside.

 

Tips for quarter windows. Grannyknots pick idea works really good to help manipulate the frames. Also just get the screws all started then work on getting the lips all turned out. The windows will still move a little until they're all the way tightened down. Also if the doors are off you can use the door jamb up by the door hinges to help push with your foot to get enough force to push the window back in place

I finished the inner weatherstrip on the hatch yesterday and got the hatch back on.

It sits a good bit proud of the body because it's so new. Hopefully it will relax over time

I also used some silicone grease on the weatherstrip at the hood hinges to keep the hinge screws from nipping the weatherstrip. Seems to be working

 

 

 

 

Edited June 23 by Patcon