4 hours ago, Patcon said:

Can someone confirm this the factory 240z shifter boot ring?

Lily is an automatic car and this ring  doesn't line up at all with any of the four bolts welded to the tunnel

Also what fasteners are used to hold the ring down. Bolts or sheet metal screws???

Hi Patcon,

Are you going to put the automatic transmission back to the car? If so, you just don’t need the metal ring. Just bolt the base plate for the automatic shifter on to the opening of the tunnel. The opening shape and size, and location is just the same as the opening for F4W71A/FS5C71A. This is also true for the late 1971 model and later. Even when Z got the new center console for F4W71B/FS5C71B the opening for the automatic transmission remains the same as F4W71A/FS5C71A. I think Nissan was cleaver to utilize and minimize the cost and labor at the production line. 
 

Or if you are going to put an F4W71B or an FS5C71B, you need the ring to bolt on the tunnel.

Great work, a lot of progress! 
 

Kats

The plan is to go manual 5 speed.

4 hours ago, Patcon said:

The plan is to go manual 5 speed.

I know that  "wheeler dealers" made theire 240z (also a yellow one!) a manual car instead of the automatic!  I remember that Edd specificly said that nissan had made an intentation in the tunnel where to cut for the manual gearbox!

I made it easy for Yah!! 😉

 

 

7 hours ago, kats said:

The opening shape and size, and location is just the same as the opening for F4W71A/FS5C71A.

@kats  Maybe in the Japanese version but not in a euro version.. The hole has to be bigger when you install a gearbox in place of the auto gearbox. As Edd said in the video Nissan has made a indentation or line in the tunnel where to cut.

3 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

@kats  Maybe in the Japanese version but not in a euro version.. The hole has to be bigger when you install a gearbox in place of the auto gearbox. As Edd said in the video Nissan has made a indentation or line in the tunnel where to cut.

Sorry for my poor English skill, I was trying to say the same like you. The only thing I would like to tell you is there is no difference between Japanese S30 and all the other export S30 in terms of the opening of the tunnel. I don’t know what kind of 5 speed Patcon is going to install, so all I can say for now is if it is a FS5C71A then he doesn’t need to cut the tunnel. FS5C71B or FS5W71B, he needs to cut the tunnel like you said.

Kats

On 6/30/2024 at 3:44 PM, Patcon said:

Can someone confirm this the factory 240z shifter boot ring?

Lily is an automatic car and this ring  doesn't line up at all with any of the four bolts welded to the tunnel

Also what fasteners are used to hold the ring down. Bolts or sheet metal screws???

 

Sheet metal screws hold it down.  In the US cars, that ring was used starting for the 1972 model.  The 70-71 models which have a different transmission, utilize a different shift boot and do not utilize that oval ring.

Edited July 1, 2024Jul 1 by inline6

After looking at the transmission going in, I believe it is a FS5W71B close ratio gearbox. So some cutting will seem necessary...

I heard back from ST about the sway bar interferences. "We design our sway bars for factory parts. If it has other parts we can't help..." So I will have to figure out the links on my own

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

After looking at the transmission going in, I believe it is a FS5W71B close ratio gearbox. So some cutting will seem necessary...

When I did a 5 spd swap on a 70 model (4spd car) I had to trim the trans tunnel and the console a little. I also did an r200 rear end and recall having to swap the mustache bar and had some issue getting the proper driveshaft. Thats one reason all those mounts and driveshaft stuff was in that parts car you got. 

Do you think the position of your rear end is making a difference in the sway bar? Would an offset rear mustache bar help? Others would know better but I think the early cars were set up with the rear end forward a bit. Just throwing that out there. 

Lily has the later bars and an R200 diff. I think the main interference comes from the size of the CV boots compared to the Ujoint and the fact they extend further under the car than the Ujoints do

So I put door hinges back on the car today. I marked them with pencil after adjusting the doors before paint. This should make them fairly close for where they need to be

Go pedal repainted and reassembled

Interesting find today. The marker light lenses are two piece!!

So you can see the funk between the layers here

This is with the layers seperated

So I will have to figure out this going forward. I would prefer to use factory lenses. They are different than the aftermarket ones.

So here is a new problem!!

The CLSD R200 diff has an input flange that is much bigger than the rear of the driveshaft I was using in the "Brown Z"

So How do I solve this??

@grannyknot@Zed Head

Probably a later model shaft. I have a 78 if you are interested.send me a pm and I’ll send it your way.