1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, Patcon said:

Thoughts on using JB weld to fix the grooving in this lock body? I am assuming that none of those marks to either side of the main groove are supposed to be there?

You are correct. None of those marks on either side of the main groove are supposed to be there.

And JB weld will fill in the grooves, but best case, I don't think it will last long. And worst case, as it wears away, it gums up the works. I would just do the best you can with what you have and pretend you never saw those small grooves in the first place.   

I mean... If someone wants to break into the car, that lock won't stop them, even if it's new.

[Captain Obvious]

And about the spring... My spring was a little rusty nugget. Pretty much nothing left. I got a couple locks from junkers and adapted one of them to fit my lock.

Unfortunately, I don't remember what the donor car was, which makes the suggestion mostly useless.  

But, here's a pic. My rusty nugget of what's left of my original spring is at the top, and two donor springs in the foreground:

I ended up cutting the "double" spring into two pieces and using half of that one. Again, my original nugget in the lower left:

 

[inline6]

10 hours ago, Patcon said:

I finally received this PVC tubing the other day. I bought it for the front markers lights but realized I needed a piece for the wiper motor too.

It has white script down the length of it. A quick wipe with lacquer thinner and it's all gone.

I can't upload the picture I want, but I the plug on the wiper was bad and instead of depinning it, I crushed it with a set of channel locks. Much faster!

I replaced the pins on the end of the wiring. Put a new jacket on the cable and reinstalled the wiper motor and bracket into the car using Steve Nixon's great little rubber pieces

It is kind of freaky how you and I are traveling in parallel on so many Z restoration things. 

"I finally received this PVC tubing the other day. I bought it for the front markers lights but realized I needed a piece for the wiper motor too."  - I bought some from Amazon just the other day for my from side markers.  I went with the 1/4" diameter instead of the 3/8".  I will be ready with the lacquer thinner when it is time to install it.

"I can't upload the picture I want, but I the plug on the wiper was bad and instead of depinning it, I crushed it with a set of channel locks. Much faster!"  - I did the same with one of the connectors for the steering column wires.  It seems that the harness connectors are made out of a plastic which is not UV resistant.  Sunlight makes them turn yellow in short order.  I used Vise grips to bust mine to pieces.

"I replaced the pins on the end of the wiring. Put a new jacket on the cable and reinstalled the wiper motor and bracket into the car using Steve Nixon's great little rubber pieces" - Same here.  I seem to have an electrical issue with mine though.  I tested the motor the other day and it kept running when I turned the wiper switch off.  The fuse for the circuit blew shortly there after.  I replaced the fuse and it blue again within seconds.  

Looks like others have beat me to the punch on the round head wiper screw.  

G
 

[emccallum]

.016 diameter wire? That is pretty small. I have plenty of 016 wire in various SS grades. If Cody is coming my way anytime soon send one with him and I bend one or mail you some wire.

[Patcon]

8 hours ago, inline6 said:

"I replaced the pins on the end of the wiring. Put a new jacket on the cable and reinstalled the wiper motor and bracket into the car using Steve Nixon's great little rubber pieces" - Same here.  I seem to have an electrical issue with mine though.  I tested the motor the other day and it kept running when I turned the wiper switch off.  The fuse for the circuit blew shortly there after.  I replaced the fuse and it blue again within seconds.  

After cutting the switch off, mine reverses and runs one more cycle to park the blades.

If yours runs more than that I would think the issue is in the little relay box mounted to the wiper motor

Edited July 12 by Patcon

[Namerow]

11 hours ago, Patcon said:

What's the possibility I could make these in a reasonable amount of time??

Fabricating coil springs is pretty easy.  Find a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and use that as your former.  Chuck it in your bench vise -- horizontally or vertically, whichever makes the wire-winding process easiest.  You can use ordinary, hardware-store wire for the job (stainless steel preferably).  Wrap the required number of coils around your former.  Make sure you leave enough extra at the starting end to be able to form the bent-over tang afterwards.   There's a bit of trial and error involved in finding the right drill bit diameter so that you end up with the desired coil diameter after you complete the wrap.

It may help to temper the wire after you've got it fully formed -- but I suspect that it won't be necessary for the lock springs.  As an example, the spring that I fabbed for the lid of my 70 Z's ashtray didn't need tempering.  

[Captain Obvious]

12 hours ago, Namerow said:

It may help to temper the wire after you've got it fully formed -- but I suspect that it won't be necessary for the lock springs.  As an example, the spring that I fabbed for the lid of my 70 Z's ashtray didn't need tempering.  

I'm no materials guy, but my expectation is you would certainly not want to temper a spring. If the wire is already malleable enough that you could cold form that wire into the spring shape (without snapping the wire because it's too brittle / hard), then tempering would just remove the springiness of the spring. It would be an ex-spring.

[emccallum]

41 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm no materials guy, but my expectation is you would certainly not want to temper a spring. If the wire is already malleable enough that you could cold form that wire into the spring shape (without snapping the wire because it's too brittle / hard), then tempering would just remove the springiness of the spring. It would be an ex-spring.

I use a wire at work called Elgiloy that is easy to bend, then becomes resilient when heat treated. I think different wires react differently when heated, so you would need to know what you have. Wire that I use for tiny springs, are heat treated. They require patience to bend as they are brittle and can only be bent one time. 

[Patcon]

Work on float bowls today. I've been procrastinating on this for a couple of days

I tried to use an electric pump I have but it overwhelmed the needle valve. So I rigged up this

Mounted the carb to the vise. I found out late the esiest way to do this is to chuck a piece of all thread up in the vise and bolt the carb body to the vise using the all thread like an intake manifold stud.

Pulled the feed line off the bottom of the bowl and added a short section of clear line turned up by the bowl. Then this funnel I connected to the clear line with some heat shrink

I was having problems with the needle valves not sealing well. Turns out I had some new Grose jets on the shelf. Bought them 5 years ago...

Both set about 25mm down from the gasket line

After testing the clear line can be lowered to drain everything into a container. I used gasoline to try to be accurate

[Captain Obvious]

25 will run, but it's a little low. I believe the float level for those carbs should be 20 mm down from the bottom of the lid.

I draw line on the side of the carb body:

[Patcon]

I can adjust it if it turns out lean. The big SUs are a pain to do. Cody's are next to impossible to accurately adjust. Will probably go EFI on both of them eventually

[Captain Obvious]

I suspect you're having the same "gas seems to have gotten less dense over the years" kind of level adjustment issue that has affected several owners.