1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Captain Obvious]

I posted some pics in that other thread detailing the valve in the brake master cylinder. The later clutch master cylinder is the same concept. Here's a couple pics.

Looks like this:

This screw cuts across the master inside and opens the valve when the clutch master is at rest: 

Opening the valve with the tip of a screwdriver:

You can see daylight through the valve when it is pushed open:

 

[Patcon]

On 11/4/2024 at 9:12 AM, Captain Obvious said:

And that clutch M/C is the later type. You can do a kinda-sorta bench bleed of the clutch master by loosening the flare nut on the outlet and just let it gravity bleed into a rag. If fluid doesn't flow, I suspect it's a problem with the linkage.

If you loosen the nuts that hold the clutch master onto the firewall, does it a) push away from the firewall, b) remain pulled tight against the firewall, or c) it's kinda neutral?

It should be neutral with a tiny bit of slop in the linkage. If it pushes away, you need more play in the linkage and may not be opening the internal valve.

I loosened these up and the cylinder is very neutral. I have a little too much slop in the linkage due to clevis wear, but fine for now. But the just is the linkage isn't causing my no bleed issue

[Patcon]

I had another quandary and wanted some opinions:

Option #1:

I currently have Maxima rear brake calipers on the rear with disc rotors (unknown make and year). The calipers need rebuilding and I have the kits. If I were going to keep them, I would have them powder coated first. About $50 -$70 each. I will also need to adjust the parking brake location some for clearance issues. The main concern being that I rebuild them and they still don't operate properly. Which means I spent money to make them pretty but they're useless...

Option #2: Go with the 240sx caliper which appears to have a better parking brake geometry and increased availability. But I will at a minimum need pads, brackets, parking brake brackets, possibly an Ebrake cable and possibly rotors. I would also have to cut my maxima adapter plates off the rear hub. The design I have is an older design and requires removing the stub axle for install. That's not happening again! $300-400 with no suprises

Option #3: Go with a Wilwood dual caliper rear brake system and eventually upgrade the fronts to Wilwoods. $1400 just for the rears. Which is a tough thing right now with 3 kids in college...

Thoughts?

[Patcon]

I would still be open to others opinions

[Patcon]

@siteunseen

Cliff do you know the part number for the rubber seals at the bottom end of the speedo cable?

[Patcon]

Worked in the shop some yesterday

Found the hood release cable and the speedo cable and started reworking them.

Plated a few things today for these parts

Cut the end back on the speedo cable. The jacket was already cracked here and pulled off with the aluminum end

I need to find the part number for this seal

[Patcon]

The clutch master appeared to be adjusted correctly, so I pulled it off. I tore it down and it was evidently one I had that I rebuilt. The little piston that allows neutral fluid flow at rest was seized up in the larger piston. It was also full of grease from when I forced it apart! So no fluid flow there...

So a little bead blasting and all good

But since no good deed goes unpunished, I ripped one of the seals trying to reinstall it.

So I found another slave cylinder I had and got one out of there. I'll get that back on the car this week hopefully and get the clutch working...

[emccallum]

Have considered buying new remanufactured rear calipers from a place like rock auto? I dont have the best of luck with them, but sometimes they have stuff pretty reasonable for old cars. 

[Patcon]

1 minute ago, emccallum said:

Have considered buying new remanufactured rear calipers from a place like rock auto? I dont have the best of luck with them, but sometimes they have stuff pretty reasonable for old cars. 

I have. SteveJ also found me links for the calipers at Summit or Jeg's I think. Having tried to order these at O'reilly's I would be surprised if they can actually get them.

I think if I were going to stay with the Maxima calipers I would take a shot at rebuilding them, but there are about 15 pieces inside the caliper. So lots of places for causing dragging

[Patcon]

I also got the header into the engine bay yesterday. It will go in but it's a snug fit!

[Patcon]

What fastener goes here at the rear of the fender in the door jamb? A big headed pan screw or a bolt?

[jfa.series1]

27 minutes ago, Patcon said:

What fastener goes here at the rear of the fender in the door jamb? A big headed pan screw or a bolt?

Here you go: