Got the hood on today

The paint chips incredibly easy. Way too easy it seems. It will probably have to be reworked at some point. We'll see

I reworked the black wire on this voltage regulator

My middle daughter was here with her boyfriend and they're good shop help!

We got all the cooling system hooked up.

Fuel lines on the carbs. They bled all the brakes and we primed the fuel pump. Once I get the 280zx matchbox hooked up, it might start.

I have lots of electrical problems..

Can someone give me a short course on how these should go to the coil for a 280zx matchbox setup??

@SteveJ

I grabbed a picture of a later ZX ICM, but this will work.

Coil positive to the +. Coil negative to the -. Coil negative should only have one wire going to the ICM.

I believe the non-latching 2 pin 6.3mm connector from Vintage Connections should plug into it. https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/6-3mm-connectors?variant=46131501138241

  On 1/19/2025 at 1:35 AM, SteveJ said:

I grabbed a picture of a later ZX ICM, but this will work.

Coil positive to the +. Coil negative to the -. Coil negative should only have one wire going to the ICM.

I believe the non-latching 2 pin 6.3mm connector from Vintage Connections should plug into it. https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/6-3mm-connectors?variant=46131501138241

Yeah, I have that part wired. It's the factory harness wires to the coil I am unsure of

We started the car today!! Didn't require Ether and it's being fed off a temp fuel source but it runs!!

Lots of electrical issues still.

I figured out where the 2 of the 4 wires at the coil go. I have 2 left. I'm not sure what to do with them. I believe the Green one feeds the Tach which is currently INOP. I could use help with that so I don't damage anything

 

I have a number of loose wires in the dash.

Heater fan doesn't work.

Headlights don't work.

Wiper motor works intermittently, mainly on high.

I fixed the brake lights today...

Alternator isn't working. I tried a different regulator today. It didn't appear to help. We had some smoke out of the dash today and my help said the Ammeter was way over to the right...

Its making noise!! Thats a milestone for sure. You may want to check the connectors in the passenger footwell that feed the dash. I had a wire that had backed out of the connector and even though the connector was plugged in the wires weren't connected. I think I have a large laminated wiring diagram if that might help, let me know and I can send it to you. 

Yes, that might be helpful!

 

 

 

Question:

When I turn the ignition to off the brake light in the gauges comes on. If I unplug the brake failure switch lead it goes out. Why?

I tinkered some today

I disassembled the door handles so I could plate the brackets. Today, I polished the handles and reassembled them

Peened the pins. If that doesn't hold, I will weld a small tack there

I had two sets so I picked the best looking ones

I also replaced these window stops in the bottom of the doors. They are surprisingly hard to get to and R&R

Also put these seals on the doors. I will probably add some sealant under portions of them after the glass frames go in

Mounted door handles I bought off Amazon. The main issue with these is the holes in the door aren't really big enough. I had to do some grinding on the door handles pins and they were still a tight fit! But they look nice and they have all the rubber seals on them

  On 1/26/2025 at 2:25 AM, Patcon said:

Question:

When I turn the ignition to off the brake light in the gauges comes on. If I unplug the brake failure switch lead it goes out. Why?

The switch is connected to ground. However, the positive side on the light, should be connected to the ignition circuit. Unplug the wire from the brake switch. Put the positive lead from your voltmeter on the wire, and touch the negative lead to ground. See if you have voltage. Let us know how much. Then we know where we need to go from there.