1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[inline6]

You push this special wafer in and slide the sleeve off the back of the cylinder.  Do you have the original key for that lock?  If so insert it into the lock and push the special wafer in and slide the sleeve off the back of the cylinder. 

If pushing this special wafer in isn't enough, then you may need to wiggle/twist the sleeve left and right a bit to free it up from the wafers in the tumbler (which could be snagging the inside surface of the sleeve a bit).  I remember mine being a bit finicky.

The inside of your sleeve may look like this:

The wafers in the tumbler will grab... (hang) on the wear grooves a bit.  So, you push in the special wafer, which when not pressed in sticks out far enough to keep the sleeve from sliding off the back of the tumbler.  And rotate the sleeve left and right to get the wafers to align with the slot in the inside of the sleeve (and not hang on the wear grooves)

Edited February 3 by inline6

[Patcon]

Thanks for the reply Garrett

By texting with the Captain I was able to get to the right place

I was stripping hatch locks because I am going to try to get some thimbles plated.

So if you open the edges of the face cap up the spring and button will come up

This is the exploded setup

Then I couldn't figure out how to get this apart

So if you press this lock wafer in it is designed to go out the front.

But you need the correct key!!!

I did not have the correct key for all my locks. IT will come out the front with enough "encouragement" 😉

I don't believe this did any permanent damage to the thimble

So he are the exploded locks

The thimbles are pot metal, like the gas door latches. Many chromers have concerns about plating potmetal. We'll see. I have a price from a guy on Facebook marketplace to do them. It was a good price but he's concerned they might peel. Still working on who I want to use

[emccallum]

Are new wafers still available? I have a bag of rear hatch locks and the one I have with the car key is the worst one! I tried to change them around but couldn't get them apart. Glad to see its possible! Even took them to a locksmith and he couldnt either. Thanks for the post, I may dig them back out. 

[inline6]

I didn't have the correct key, but got mine apart without much difficulty.  The hatch lock clocks in two positions, one 90 degrees from the other.  You have to align the wafers with a channel in the sleeve.  Here are two photos showing the inside of the sleeve, one taken, and then the sleeve rotated around 180 degrees and another taken.  Note the channels:

  

The two channels in the first pic have "walls" at the far end.  The other two channels do not - they are open channels from front to back.  With the correct key inserted, the tumblers all retract, and pushing the large wafer in is all that is needed.  Without the correct key, you may have to push the larger wafer down, and then insert a thin object like a hard wire that has been flattened to push all the wafers into the cylinder, so they will clear the "wall".  Or, use it to push the wafers into the cylinder while you rotate the cylinder in the sleeve until the wafers fall into one of the channels without the wall.  Then slide the cylinder out.  

The good news is that after you replace the wafers with the correct ones for a key you have, assembly will be much easier!

 

 

Edited February 3 by inline6

[emccallum]

Thanks, that really helps visualize it. 

[Patcon]

I believe new wafers are available but I bought a vintage kit off ebay that had wafers, springs and replacement face caps

[Captain Obvious]

16 hours ago, Patcon said:

texting with the Captain

Phoned a friend!  Haha!!    Glad to help.

[Captain Obvious]

14 hours ago, inline6 said:

I didn't have the correct key, but got mine apart without much difficulty. 

Yeah, once you know what you are working with, it's easy to get it apart even without the correct key. Been a while since I've been into the locks and I don't remember which direction the tumbler springs push with respect to the "walls" inside the barrel, but it may be as simple as using an uncut key?

If not that, then some rudimentary lock picking would be the trick.

[emccallum]

13 hours ago, Patcon said:

I believe new wafers are available but I bought a vintage kit off ebay that had wafers, springs and replacement face caps

Any chance you have a link? I searched and couldnt find a kit. Thanks.

 

[emccallum]

7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Yeah, once you know what you are working with, it's easy to get it apart even without the correct key. Been a while since I've been into the locks and I don't remember which direction the tumbler springs push with respect to the "walls" inside the barrel, but it may be as simple as using an uncut key?

If not that, then some rudimentary lock picking would be the trick.

Thanks a lot! I was able to get one apart using a spare key. I just kept pressure on it and moved the key in and out and it slid out. Sorry to highjack Charles, i'm out.

 

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, emccallum said:

Thanks a lot! I was able to get one apart using a spare key. I just kept pressure on it and moved the key in and out and it slid out. Sorry to highjack Charles, i'm out.

 

No worries!

That's great. I was going to suggest that. I did the same thing with one of my locks

This should have the correct wafers

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204248503359

[Captain Obvious]

15 hours ago, emccallum said:

Thanks a lot! I was able to get one apart using a spare key. I just kept pressure on it and moved the key in and out and it slid out.

Yup. Slight pressure and move the tumblers around. Each tumbler should click over the wall and then move to the next one. Keep doing that one wafer (tumbler) at a time and the cylinder comes out.