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That sure looks like the right one, I have the same set up and I remember having to grind off a bit of those inside tabs on the caliper that are right next to the disc. I think it was a little less than 1mm and only on one side.


2 hours ago, Patcon said:

The "B" distance piece was right at the top of spec 2.069" if IRC. the hub was 2.071 - 2.073

Perfect. That's exactly what you're looking for. 

Good luck with the Toyota brakes. I don't know anything at all about them.      :beer:

57 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Good luck with the Toyota brakes. I don't know anything at all about them.      :beer:


Thanks, evidently I don't know anything about them either...:blush:

@Zed Head

ZH, Do you have any insight on the brakes?

No insight from actually using them.  Are the pistons fully retracted?  The hydraulic pressure will be the same no matter how far the pistons are extended, or mismatched, so you could make them work by taking material from the pad surface.  One side's pistons will be more extended than the others, if I'm reading your problem right, but it won't affect performance.

12 hours ago, Zed Head said:

No insight from actually using them.  Are the pistons fully retracted?  The hydraulic pressure will be the same no matter how far the pistons are extended, or mismatched, so you could make them work by taking material from the pad surface.  One side's pistons will be more extended than the others, if I'm reading your problem right, but it won't affect performance.

The issue isn't pads. The  rotor hits the sides of the slots on the inside of the caliper, before it clears the strut ears

Here and here?  You're saying that if one fits the other doesn't?  

I'd grind the inside interference before the outside mounting points.  If I had to use those.  But, were it mine, I'd just go back to the stock setup.

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5 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Here and here?  You're saying that if one fits the other doesn't?  

I'd grind the inside interference before the outside mounting points.  If I had to use those.  But, were it mine, I'd just go back to the stock setup.

Yes the slot on the caliper hits the rotor before the caliper gets in position to bolt up. I thought about grinding but have ruled that out as too much of a hack and the fact the pads might not fit even if I get the rotor bolted up. I have considered going back to the factory caliper. I may still. I also thought about ordering what should be a plug and play caliper from Rockauto and see what I get...

  • 1 month later...

I still need to check on the front calipers and the front rotors

In the mean time I have been trying to get the rest of the suspension black so I can put it back down on some wheels

I painted the last control arm today and polished some spindle pins. I have found many times they will polish up nicely. I use lots of anti seize on reassembly

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