Ok. So I've had some time to work on the car this weekend.

I started fitting the fender and assorted front end parts

I ran into a problem with the fenders and cowl. the gaps weren't even and didn't run straight. So I added onto the edge of one side of the cowl and on the fenders I cut a slot in and made the panel flush with the cowl and welded it all back up

A little smear of fiberglass and some blocking and it aught to be good

This is the most assembled the car has been in NINE years!

 

The hood needs some more work and I will have to slot it a little bit to bring it forward some more. I will also have to re-arch it. I plan on using Jeff's method @Home Built by Jeff

 

On another note, when removing the car from the rotisserie I dropped it about six inches onto the jack stands and dented the frame rails. Two steps forward ; one back

I was able to locate 4 cowl screws in my bolt boxes. What is the correct finish. Yellow zinc or clear?

Also, does anybody have one of these inspection door shims. I have one on the car. I really need another or I could probably bent the bracket...

 

Nice work. If you noticed with all the work I put into my bonnet, I ended up giving up and just bought a repro one. I am ashamed of myself for caving in, but I gave it my best ? 

11 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

Nice work. If you noticed with all the work I put into my bonnet, I ended up giving up and just bought a repro one. I am ashamed of myself for caving in, but I gave it my best ? 

Some times you just have to punt.

I think I can make this one work if I elongate the holes some in the hood. This is an aftermarket hood I bought 25 years ago after I t-boned a post. It's close to working now. I will probably tinker with it some today

14 hours ago, Patcon said:

On another note, when removing the car from the rotisserie I dropped it about six inches onto the jack stands and dented the frame rails. Two steps forward ; one back

Ow. Ow. Ow.  That couldn't have been a good moment (looks like something I would do).  How well did the rail respond to the slide hammer?  Did you have to use any heat to get the metal to shift?

7 hours ago, Namerow said:

Ow. Ow. Ow.  That couldn't have been a good moment (looks like something I would do).  How well did the rail respond to the slide hammer?  Did you have to use any heat to get the metal to shift?

I came up with this. I believe there are a couple of layers of metal in the frame rail there. So a jack stand, a section of pipe, some chain and some studs welds and you get this

Add a big hammer

It worked pretty well but I will still dress them up a little bit with a thin layer of fiberglass

Worked on getting panel gaps right on the front panels some today. I think I got the hood pretty close. It sits just forward of the head light buckets, but they are pretty close. I also re-arched the hood using Jeff's method. It works good but be careful. It is easy to over arch the hood!

The cowl panel was sitting a little high compared to the fenders. I had crimped it when adjusting it. So out came the body saw and I added a slit. Got it flush and welded it back. As a word of caution it ended up too low after it cooled. I should have held it up just a hair to make it better when it cooled. I dollied it some and got it back to where it needed to be. I did both sides this way.

Then I moved around to the drivers door. The car had clipped something before I got it on the door and creased it right through the wheel arch. So I patched it in with a tabco panel a number of years ago. Well when I got the door on the car the tabco panel doesn't arch the same way the door does. So out comes the cut off tool

I started filling this back in when I stopped for today

Also I hung the new air dam on the front. It's a Xenon urethane dam I have had for a while. I don't like the way it meets the front fenders. Has anyone else had this issue? How did you deal with it?

 

 

53 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you deal with it?

I pushed the air dam forward so the back edge lined up well with the wheel arch and with a die grinder removed enough of the urethane so the bumper recess lined up with body bumper recess.

6 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I pushed the air dam forward so the back edge lined up well with the wheel arch and with a die grinder removed enough of the urethane so the bumper recess lined up with body bumper recess.

I could also do that with the edge of the wheel arch where it's too wide. Good idea! Thanks Chris!

Where the air dam curves around the front at the turn signals, did you put the air dam on the inside or the outside of the sugar scoop? I have it on the inside currently...

Edited September 3, 20186 yr by Patcon

Inside.

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

Add a big hammer

That's my solution to things too!