1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[grannyknot]

I stopped trying to install the SS trim after the seal was on the glass for same the reason that you found, now I insert the SS trim in the seal, then mount the seal on the glass. Much easier, I know, it doesn't help you much now but if you ever do it again.

[Patcon]

I figured it would be too difficult to do it that way. 😒 I'm going to try to use this seal for now. I can redo it later if I feel like it but it's between me and Tampa right now. So it will have to wait

[dutchzcarguy]

10 hours ago, Patcon said:

Should the center core show continuity?

 

10 hours ago, SteveJ said:

I would expect the center post would have continuity through the cable, but I could be wrong.

YES! The center core should be under 1 Ohms..  Also the outer should be.  As it is copper inside and also the shielding is copper with tin layer on it.

There must be no conduction between the inner core and the outer sheath, this must have very high (unmeasurable) resistance.

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

 

YES! The center core should be under 1 Ohms..  Also the outer should be.  As it is copper inside and also the shielding is copper with tin layer on it.

There must be no conduction between the inner core and the outer sheath, this must have very high (unmeasurable) resistance.

Thanks

The outer jacket has continuity and is isolated from the inner but the inner has no continuity. I will look for a new cable...

[inline6]

12 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I stopped trying to install the SS trim after the seal was on the glass for same the reason that you found, now I insert the SS trim in the seal, then mount the seal on the glass. Much easier, I know, it doesn't help you much now but if you ever do it again.

 

12 hours ago, Patcon said:

I figured it would be too difficult to do it that way. 😒 I'm going to try to use this seal for now. I can redo it later if I feel like it but it's between me and Tampa right now. So it will have to wait

 

I will soon be installing the windshield in my car.  In the "How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car" book, Wick Humble recommends installing the stainless trim after the windshield is in the car.  I was planning to go that route.  I hadn't thought to install the stainless in the gasket before putting the weather strip on the glass.  Interesting.  

Patcon, is your WS a factory one?




 

[Patcon]

No, my windshield gasket is from Zcardepot

Once the windshield is in the car it sort of locks the trim in. So doing it in the car is even harder.

@grannyknot

Tips and tricks for putting the rubber on the glass with the trim in it?

[grannyknot]

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

No, my windshield gasket is from Zcardepot

Once the windshield is in the car it sort of locks the trim in. So doing it in the car is even harder.

@grannyknot

Tips and tricks for putting the rubber on the glass with the trim in it?

I should clarify, the warmed up gasket goes on the windshield, then the SS trim gets installed on the gasket so it looks like this.  The SS trim goes in a lot easier because the gasket is still a bit loose. Then just before installing on the car, insert the trimmer filament line by rolling it into the fold where the pinch weld goes.

Sometimes if the gasket isn't warm enough it will want to pull off the glass as you start working the gasket on opposite side, a second pair of hands at this point is a big help. Once the SS trim is installed there is no danger of the gasket pulling off the glass as the trim locks the gasket onto the windshield.

Edited January 14 by grannyknot

[Patcon]

Yeah, that was my process too. It just didn't work out...

Edited January 15 by Patcon

[dutchzcarguy]

20 hours ago, Patcon said:

but the inner has no continuity. I will look for a new cable...

The inner wire is made of massiv copper and breaks much more easely..

You also could use a new cable RG59B/U if i'm not mistaken, it's impedance is/needs to be 75 ohms and you can buy that by the meter.. oeps a foot/arm, leg? you name it.. (Just kidding!!!!  sorry had to make this joke 🙊)  You can also find the male and female connectors in the electronics "department"  and make your own new cable.

Edited January 15 by dutchzcarguy

[dutchzcarguy]

Iirc the cable used for the extension in the 240z antenna is RG59 cable  (Not the 58 as this is 50 ohms impedance)  This RG59 has the 75 ohms impedance!

(I corrected my cabletype in the previous message.)   Maybe you can look it up what the impedance should be for the radio antennacable in the paperwork on the radio's used in cars.

[motorman7]

I have always installed the stainless steel trim AFTER getting the windshield installed on the car. When I tried to put the trim in before installing the windshield onto the car, the trim came out during the installation process.  The key to installing the trim after is using lots of Windex. I will typically install one trim edge in the rubber gasket groove, I then lube the other rubber groove generously with Windex and use a small screwdriver to lift the other rubber groove over the stainless steel trim edge. With a nice soft gasket, the second groove will lift over and secure the trim almost like a zipper. Hard gaskets are a bit more difficult,  but not bad.  For what it's worth, I have installed at least 10 sets of windshields and hatch glass and their respective trim so I am pretty comfortable with it. Also, I blogged the process somewhere on the site here.

[motorman7]

Also, not a fan of trimmer filament. It is a small diameter and has a tendency to cling to the rubber lip and potentially tear the gasket lip (ask me how I know). I prefer to use a quarter inch diameter nylon cord/rope for the process. It's a bit more gentle on the rubber and comes out of the groove easier during the install process. 

Edited January 16 by motorman7