Zed Head Posted July 3 Share #1033 Posted July 3 (edited) The 300ZX used a different pinion flange bolt pattern, bigger bolt circle. The picture and specs below are from either Johnscars or brokenkitty, can't remember, but saved on Hybridz. Looks like brokenkitty has left the ZCar world. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar.htm Easiest might be to swap a 280ZX or 280Z pinion flange over. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125392-clarification-of-diff-pinion-flange-dimensions/ Edited July 3 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted July 3 Share #1034 Posted July 3 1 hour ago, Patcon said: So here is a new problem!! The CLSD R200 diff has an input flange that is much bigger than the rear of the driveshaft I was using in the "Brown Z" So How do I solve this?? @grannyknot@Zed Head You have to be careful here. I think to resolve, you will need to swap the front flange on the differential to one from another R200 - to one that matches your driveshaft. When you do, you have to torque the pinion nut to the right torque range. If you do not, you will run the risk of quickly damaging the the "front pilot bearing", and suffering subsequent differential pinion/ring gear damage. I recommend looking up the torque spec in the differential manual in the resource section and using the low end of the specification. Why? Because the bearings are not new... and I have found that once they have been "crushed" and run... the light end of the specification is enough torque to achieve the correct turning resistance on the pinion shaft. The correct way would be to remove the differential. Place on a bench. Remove the carrier assembly. Remove and replace the front flange. Torque the pinion nut to the light end of the spec. Measure the turning resistance in inch lbs. Once you determine that is good, put the carrier back in, and reinstall the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb Posted July 3 Share #1035 Posted July 3 Why not just use another drive shaft that fit's? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 3 Share #1036 Posted July 3 He'd have to have one made. Everything after 1975 is a staked u-joint so that's a hurdle. Might be able to find a flange with the DAT-110-300ZX pattern. I think that they are actual flanges that he used to sell as part of his V8 conversion kits. Not sure though if they are differential flanges or propeller shaft flanges. I never thought about it much when the web site was active. He quit selling Zcar parts now though. Might be worth calling the guy. You can tell by the web pages that he's more old school than new. Pretty sure that brokenkitty and Johnscars are run by the same guy. Phone: (214) 426-4101 Fax: (214) 426-3116 Email: Help@JohnsCars.com Mailing Address 800 Jaguar Lane Dallas, TX 75226 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted July 3 Share #1037 Posted July 3 In situations like that I have always just made up an adapter on the lathe, then have the thickness of the adapter cut out of the drive shaft and re-welded by a drive shaft shop. You could also turn the flange 10 degrees and re drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted July 3 Author Share #1038 Posted July 3 Can't rotate and drill because the pilot diameter is not the same on both flanges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted July 3 Author Share #1039 Posted July 3 10 hours ago, inline6 said: You have to be careful here. I think to resolve, you will need to swap the front flange on the differential to one from another R200 - to one that matches your driveshaft. When you do, you have to torque the pinion nut to the right torque range. If you do not, you will run the risk of quickly damaging the the "front pilot bearing", and suffering subsequent differential pinion/ring gear damage. I recommend looking up the torque spec in the differential manual in the resource section and using the low end of the specification. Why? Because the bearings are not new... and I have found that once they have been "crushed" and run... the light end of the specification is enough torque to achieve the correct turning resistance on the pinion shaft. The correct way would be to remove the differential. Place on a bench. Remove the carrier assembly. Remove and replace the front flange. Torque the pinion nut to the light end of the spec. Measure the turning resistance in inch lbs. Once you determine that is good, put the carrier back in, and reinstall the differential. I have real concerns over swapping the flanges for just this reason! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted July 3 Share #1040 Posted July 3 4 hours ago, Patcon said: I have real concerns over swapping the flanges for just this reason! It is not that much work to take the carrier out, swap pinion flanges, torque and measure turning resistance on the pinion. You just need the pinion nut ft-lb spec and the turning resistance in-lb spec on hand... and good torque wrenches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted July 3 Author Share #1041 Posted July 3 8 hours ago, inline6 said: It is not that much work to take the carrier out, swap pinion flanges, torque and measure turning resistance on the pinion. You just need the pinion nut ft-lb spec and the turning resistance in-lb spec on hand... and good torque wrenches. I have the good torque wrenches and at another time I wouldn't have an issue doing this. But I'm racing the calendar and don't want to use that much time to sort this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Patcon Posted July 4 Author Popular Post Share #1042 Posted July 4 Got the doors on tonight. Not totally lined up but pretty close 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Patcon Posted July 5 Author Popular Post Share #1043 Posted July 5 So in the shop yesterday and today Still working on running lights. Pulling together the best parts. Buffing and washing Finally found the wiper motors. I haven't been able to find them. I knew I had at least 3 but I couldn't find them. So frustrating!! I looked through the shop several times. Shelley helped me today and we were very thorough. We found them right near the work bench almost under my feet. I hate the tunnel vision that comes with age! ;( So here is the wiper motor that came out of Lily It has a hard shell on it instead of a bag like this one The BrownZ also has the hard shell, so I believe that is correct. When Lily got a green repaint they painted the cover. It had a lot of paint on it. Put it in the bead blaster. It came out ok. Better than paint. I treated it with some Meguiars after this... I also worked on the air dam & the frame. I primed the frame the other day Looks like I bought it in 2011 !!! I measured some center marks Then I used some 3m Urethane and glued the frame in. Hopefully it holds. I haven't decided if I'm going to try to correct the wavy area. If it was TPO I would cut it and plastic weld it, but it's Urethane and I'm not sure I can repair the seam if I cut it... I also made up a wiper motor test switch based on SteveJ's instructions. I had to go back 20 pages in the thread to find it!! I didn't know of a good way to just search this thread. Some vintage connections and some scrap wire So of the 3 wiper motors I have, the one out of Lily is the only one that works. The others click but don't turn. The test switch is cool because the park feature and everything works! Thanks Steve! I also got the drivers seat in. At least for now. I'm hoping to bleed the brakes tomorrow Overall a good day in the shop... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namerow Posted July 5 Share #1044 Posted July 5 (edited) 2 hours ago, Patcon said: I haven't decided if I'm going to try to correct the wavy area. I wonder, perhaps, whether you could fabricate a metal stiffener (tubing? U-channel?) and glue it to the underside of the lip. You'd probably need to use countersunk sheet metal screws (or flush-fitting pop rivets?) to pull the urethane lip down onto the stiffener. They might need to be permanent. I don't think the glue bond would hold up over the long term without some mechanical assistance. Edited July 5 by Namerow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras
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