Found metal at the bottom of my 5-speed. What next?

[EuroDat]

A photo of the back end with all the gears removed. Well almost.

[KDMatt]

Chas, holy crap dude you freakin ROCK! This is a big big help!

Also, as a note, I don't think I have one of these:

7 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

 

 

Otherwise, I've got the bearing, the gutter, the rear oil seal, and the gasket ordered up. 

 

The picture of the back gears removed is really illuminating. I still have a long way to go it looks like. 

[Dave WM]

2 hours ago, KDMatt said:

yep not on yours I went back and looked for where it would be.

 

[KDMatt]

No worries, I think I'm in good hands now.

I spent an hour just getting things cleaned up and organizing -- putting parts and pieces into bins and containers -- to make sure I'm keeping track of everything before I go forward.

I also mocked up the shafts with some wooden dowels screwed into a piece of scrap plywood, this way I can keep all of the gears, snaprings, shims, etc. etc. in order, straight and organized. 

Got some heavy-duty snapring pliers too, along with some new safety glasses and work-gloves to commemorate the occasion. 

I hope I'm doin' you guys proud. 

 

[EuroDat]

7 hours ago, KDMatt said:

Chas, holy crap dude you freakin ROCK! This is a big big help!

Also, as a note, I don't think I have one of these:

Otherwise, I've got the bearing, the gutter, the rear oil seal, and the gasket ordered up. 

 

The picture of the back gears removed is really illuminating. I still have a long way to go it looks like. 

You are right. I mixed up the close ratio box from the ZX. Its not mentioned in the parts catalog and that throws people a bit.

You have the neutral detent on that side back in the rear extension. Its the one with the drain hole Dave mentioned. It's purpose it to centre the selector to the 3rd, 4th line. Nissan calls it the reverse selector plunger. I don't have a good photo of it, but you can see it in this diagram as POS 6 & 7.

Note: When you put it back together cover the ends of the stopper pin with a good sealant. The is a place that can weaping oil over time and make a mess. It won't run out of there, but it will be enough to gather dust and build up over time. A drop of oil can spread a lot.

[KDMatt]

@EuroDat Cover up the stopper-pin with some sealant? OK. That's simple advice. Thank you! 

 

Got another quick question for the crew here. What's the best way to pull off this bearing that's kind of out here in no-man's-land on the shaft? The gear puller I've got isn't nearly long enough. 

Other than that, I'm slowly getting into it.

Clutch forks and rods are out, as well as all of the little balls. I've kept everything neatly separated and labeled with a paint sharpie where and when applicable. Just need to figure out how to get this sucker off before I go any further.

Also that nut on the main-shaft, IIRC, is reverse threaded right? 

[Dave WM]

may be helpful, he has more on his youtube channel taking it all the way down and rebuilding.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Dave WM

[EuroDat]

That rear bearing is a bit of a challenge to get off. My standard bearing puller was also too short, so I made one from 10mm plate with two threaded bars to do it.

[KDMatt]

@Dave WM Thank you for the video link. I'll check that out when I've got some time at the office.

@EuroDat aaaahhh so THAT'S what that thing is for! I saw that picture in a previous thread but didn't put 2 + 2 together. I don't have a lot of metal-working tools at my disposal -- I'll have to improvise. 

Thanks guys! 

[Dave WM]

there are 3 videos by the same guy. The second one starts about where you are now. If nothing else it gives you an idea of where force is needed and how much (he really whacks that main shaft to get it free from the bearing). On mine I only had to replace the rear most counter shaft bearing. I heated it up some with a 100 watt light bulb (5 min maybe sitting right on it) and it just slipped right on. heating and cooling are effective means for installing bearing if you lack presses.

[EuroDat]

I agree with Dave fully. A simple hot air gun can make all the difference.

Almost forgot. The main shaft nut in your transmission should be a normal right hand thread. The close ratio in the ZX coupe had the left hand thread, but there are always exceptions to the rule. Someone could have swaped it.

You can simple check it by loosening it first before you order one. Its a good idea to do that now while you can still lock two gears so it won't turn.

The left and right hand versions are in my list.

I think the right hand thread version 32354-E9804 has replaced the older 32354-A7400. Not sure what the difference is between the two.

 

Edited May 10, 2016 by EuroDat
Main shaft nut

[Mark Maras]

16 hours ago, KDMatt said:

@EuroDat Cover up the stopper-pin with some sealant? OK. That's simple advice. Thank you! 

 

Got another quick question for the crew here. What's the best way to pull off this bearing that's kind of out here in no-man's-land on the shaft? The gear puller I've got isn't nearly long enough. 

 

 I've removed that bearing with a little heat, a 5/16" pin punch and a hammer. Make sure you put the punch on the inner race. First hit, you'll see it move. I tap on one side, twist it 180`, give it another tap. etc.