Need a miracle!

[Zed Head]

11 hours ago, SteveJ said:

The strange thing is that I have seen someone get the distributor 180 out before. Don't ask me how, but it happened.

I remember a thread on that.  Seemed like they must have forced a worn out groove over the tang.

[Taxelson]

So today I had a friend come over, we made sure the timing is set right.  We checked every injector, all have pulse, all spark plugs have spark.  We both are stumped.  It cranks over, no problem, just won't fire.  We tried to spray starter fluid in the intake as well, made no difference.  Any ideas.  Coil, ignition, ?.?

[SteveJ]

Have you tried an inline spark tester? http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Line-Spark-Tester/dp/B000MHNDSM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

That can tell you whether or not you have a strong spark. What is the timing set to?

Have you used an ohmmeter to check the resistance from positive to negative and from the center post to negative on the coil? Report the readings.

Do you have the stock transistor ignition unit?

Have you verified the wiring for the ignition matches the factory wiring diagram?

Edited May 21, 2016 by SteveJ
Rambling

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, Taxelson said:

we made sure the timing is set right.  

We checked every injector, all have pulse,

all spark plugs have spark.

 We tried to spray starter fluid in the intake as well, 

People new to engines often are somewhat oblivious to measurements.  The actual numbers are very important.  And sometimes the definitions of terms can be confusing.  How did you "make sure" the timing was right?  And what is "pulse"?  As SteveJ noted, how did you check spark?  How did you "try" to spray starter fluid?  It either went in the manifold or it didn't.

You and Djanssen have a lot in common.  You both should probably go back to square one and check that the parts are correctly oriented.  People have been putting these engines together the wrong way for many years.  Engine Mechanical chapter, engine assembly section.  Check the marks and orientations, the notch and groove, the rotor position, the timing mark, all of that.  A good engine assembler will know that his engine is going to start because there are marks on all of the important parts.  You just have to line them all up. Like ducks.

 

[Taxelson]

Almost there.  Progress update:

 

Bonnie starts and runs, however, it will not start if the fuel pump is connected.  I read a suggestion online that I tried.  I disconnected the fuel pump, cranked the engine (to reduce fuel pressure) and it started, but when I connected the fuel pump, it refused to start.  Weird, but I thought it could be a fuel pressure problem, so I rented a fuel pressure gauge, took measurements with the fuel pump connected, it measured 42 lbs.. So I bought a new fuel pressure regulator.  It now measures 36lbs, but still Will not start with the fuel pump connected.  And if I disconnect the pump, it will start but very hard, and will not idle.  Any suggestions, much appreciated.

 

Troy

[Zed Head]

You're measuring pressure and connecting and disconnecting the pump, but you're not connecting the two actions, the pressure and the electrical connection.  Does the engine only start with low fuel pressure, or is the fuel pressure the same when it won't and will start?

[Taxelson]

It only starts with low fuel pressure.  I'm going to try and blow out the return line right now, maybe it's clogged and won't allow proper regulation.

[Zed Head]

Looks like your "gas gushing out" problem is back, the problem that disappeared miraculously.  You probably have a stuck or shorted injector, maybe a shorted/bad ECU.  Actually, flooding is one of the signs of a bad ECU.  Along with no-start.  I had a bad ECU and it did both.  

People have fixed the problem temporarily by tapping/beating on the side of the ECU and/or wiggling the ECU connector.

[Taxelson]

You think its flooding with the fuel pump connected, but not with it disconnected?  I'll check the spark plugs and try your suggestions.