The Z starts on starting fluid but sounds like a tractor. I think some cylinders is not working. The hose on the valve cover is plugged into a wrong place and the hose that suppose to go to intake has been put in a loop witch goes to the back of the block. New K&N fuel pump arriving Friday. I will figure it out.

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Well that's a plus if it has flat topped pistons. Dished are fine though as you are just starting out. Beat that hood out and get the driver's door to close. We don't want to hear a fixable tragedy. The motor is an easy fix, you getting flung out is not.

Thanks. I'm currently just checking and later this year it will be in the garage. I will be careful with the doors.

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35 minutes ago, RS02 said:

The Z starts on starting fluid but sounds like a tractor. I think some cylinders is not working.

Looks like your firing order might be off.  I can only verify one wire from your picture and it looks wrong.  What should be 2 is 4.  Here's a couple of good references.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/15211-firing-order-at-head-did-search/

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/28399-firing-order-with-photos/

 

You need to find a good frame shop in your area. They can probably salvage that frame rail and pull the car back the way it needs to be...

Eager to learn, #1 priority. 

The help is here!

Eager to learn, #1 priority. 

The help is here!

Yep！You guys are already helping me a lot!

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I quickly ran out and checked the spark plug wires, the wire is not in order when it comes to the holder on top of the valve cover. But I put it back into order anyway. Now I'm sure that the wire goes into where it should. But the wire connector for cylinder two is broken

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You are eliminating the small stuff that really affects the motor. Good time spent!  Add dielectric grease to those connections or any type lube to keep them from oxidizing. 

Seeing that wire, and considering that it';s a 240Z, you'll want to check your points.  Looks like a 240Z distributor.  Best just get new wires, plugs, points, etc.

Even better, check that distributor isn't shot (the breaker plate bearings)  and decide whether or not to just swap up to something better.  You're already off of original.

You are eliminating the small stuff that really affects the motor. Good time spent!  Add dielectric grease to those connections or any type lube to keep them from oxidizing. 

I did. And I already got some NGK wire.

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Alright. I just done some research and find out that L24 and L28 block have different cooling loop. But they are proximity the same Since my engine is a L28 with SU carbs, should I just follow this diagram? Or should I go with the L24 loop

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Since you have carbs that L28 diagram won't work. You don't have that thermal heating plate before the air regulator.

I'll post some pictures of what I did on my carbed L24. The block doesn't matter. It's the type of intake you have, fuel injection or carbs.