Flying Z

[heyitsrama]

7 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I used these from O'reilly's, Sealed Power #381-8027.  They had them the next morning from one of their HUB stores.  

I used the proper size socket, one that fits tightest inside the plug, with thick tape on the edges of the socket to keep from leaving scratches.  The big one in the end I used a piece of wood and hammer to get it down flush with the block then tapped it the rest of the way with a hammer and 1/4" extension around the edges.  They go down past the block about a 1/16" to the end of the chamfer.  $11.49

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SPO0/3818027/02268.oap

I called my local O'reilly , they did not have it (2 week order time), i ended up getting them from another store, Dorman 565-093 35mm plugs, for the block $2.54 each  was not able to get the ones in the head, but ill change them at a later time i suppose   Pulling out the old ones is straight forward? It looks like piercing them then pulling them out would be easy. 

 

That guy had so much space on his land, there was another one of those m35 in the shadows of the shed behind the lift, a bit hard to see.

[heyitsrama]

popped the old ones out, should i be concerned about rust along the walls of the cylinders? Looking at this worries me about the condition of the water pump....... I'm gonna attempt to flush out the crud and get it all cleaned out, what yall think?

 

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[Zed Head]

You have one of those PO puzzles.  Each finding raises more questions.  Why did the core plugs have holes in them?  Was he planning to remove them?  Why?  Maybe it had an overheating problem?  If it overheated, is the head warped?  Is a  warped head the real reason he decided to swap to a V8?  Etc....

RossiZ highly recommends purgng the coolant channels.  He did his and was shocked at how much crud came out.  The water pump is probably fine since it's in a moving fluid zone.  The crud drops out in the dead spots.

If it was mine, and things aligned, I'd start it and run it for a few seconds to see how it sounds.  I don't think enough heat will be generated to damage things.  But that's me, others might recommend against.  You're on the edge of just tearing things way down to check them out.  Water pump, valve cover (timing chain and cam shaft), cylinder head (gasket and warpage), oil pan...

[Zed Head]

Forgot to say, those carbs are probably full of old fuel.  Take a sniff.  Your next move kind of depends on if you like to do things in small steps or one large one.  I like to mess around so I'd start it to see how bad things are.  But you can waste a lot of time messing around that way.

[heyitsrama]

35 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You have one of those PO puzzles.  Each finding raises more questions.  Why did the core plugs have holes in them?  Was he planning to remove them?  Why?  Maybe it had an overheating problem?  If it overheated, is the head warped?  Is a  warped head the real reason he decided to swap to a V8?  Etc....

RossiZ highly recommends purgng the coolant channels.  He did his and was shocked at how much crud came out.  The water pump is probably fine since it's in a moving fluid zone.  The crud drops out in the dead spots.

If it was mine, and things aligned, I'd start it and run it for a few seconds to see how it sounds.  I don't think enough heat will be generated to damage things.  But that's me, others might recommend against.  You're on the edge of just tearing things way down to check them out.  Water pump, valve cover (timing chain and cam shaft), cylinder head (gasket and warpage), oil pan...

I found the thread you were referencing;

 

I think he was able to flush it out properly due to have intake / exhaust parts removed. I'm thinking based on this image 

 

I should be able to flush the block out by pouring water down the connection that goes from the head to the heater valve. The only thing I'm worried about is having removed all the passenger side caps already might become probematic in attempting to completely flush out the system. It might be worthwise to attempt to flush as much as possible, install the caps, then do another flush..

 

I was thinking about the head warping too, im hoping that the leaks were caused by the steel plugs corroding with the water mixture, and not due to overheating because of clogged passages. I do believe that a compression check at this point would also be useful in attempting to see if there are warps in the head.

Edited May 30, 2016 by heyitsrama

[heyitsrama]

Alright, well that was a quick 24 hours, I found out that my buddies Porsche is going to be done within the next 2 weeks, so i can get my rotisserie back soon. I think I know what happened to the motor, it appears at some point someone let some hardwater sit inside of it, and based on this there is a $^!# ton of mineral depots in the block. It looks clean when you peek inside the block from the plug hole, but as soon as you look around specifically up the cylinder wall there is hard BLACK mineral deposits. 

 

I removed the other plugs, and pumped water through the heater core exit on the head, a ton of gunk came out, but there is still some in there. SO tomorrow i plan on getting that crate setup, and check the compression across the cylinders, assuming there is not a HUGE loss of pressure I'll install the plugs (why waste them if we find the block is messed up), and attempt to remove the rust. This leaves out 2 methods of approach for this.

1. Get (White Vinegar / Distilled water) or (Prestone Radiator Flush) and plug lower radiator hose exit and let it sit for a while, then flush and repeat until satisfied.
2. Get the same stuff, however run the lower rad hose into a bucket, and pump the water back into the top of the head. 

The benefit of running number 2, is that it does not let the stuff sit inside the system for too long.... I found a swimming pool pump for 10 bucks, I'm considering trying it, it might come in handy later on when doing coolant flushes. 

Another issue is that it appears that the harness was cut at some point (unless its tucked into the dash), so i need to find something to address that... gotta peep at old harnesses, or a EZ wiring harness....

and a 15/16" master cylinder.... 

PRE:

 

 

POST: 

Engine Bay : 

[siteunseen]

Mine had those same hard water deposits.  They were especially bad at the rear, between 6 & 5.  I used an ice pick and a straightened out clothes hanger to knock as much loose as I could.  Did you remove the block drain on the driver's side?  I think that's where you'll get the best flow for cleaning the block.  I would crank my air compressor as high as I could and shoot air through the heads passages through that heater core outlet.  The heads don't crud up as bad as the block, they don't hold water like the block does and they are aluminium.  You should make sure and not get the head's passages stopped up with the stuff from the block.  That plug at the rear of the head should be okay, I'd leave that one alone unless it looks to be in bad shape.  I've never changed one of those.

 

[sweatybetty]

anyone ever try CLR? i wonder if you mixed up some of that and let it sit for a couple of days?

[rossiz]

i got great results with a pressure washer - you can rent one for pretty cheap. looks like you found my thread, so you get the idea. i had the head off and used the nozzle to flush down the passages that feed the head, it pushed out quite a bit of stuff through the frost plugs and the lower drain plug (drivers side down low on the back of the block). i wouldn't worry too much about the deposits that remain just because it looks ugly, i'd focus more on getting water through/in/around everything - it's decent flow that matters, not a shiny surface. that's where the pressure washer is handy. i also agree that using some CLR would be a good idea to loosen the crud up. what's the condition of the oil? does it show signs of water contamination? if you're planning on re-building the motor, might as well pull the head and then the head gasket will tell you if there was a warpage/overheating issue. otherwise, if you're just going to dust it off and run it, then a compression test and quick flush will be fine.

[grannyknot]

I have had good results with CLR in an iron block, 24hrs of soaking with full strength and then lots of flushing with a garden hose and a pressure washer, very clean afterwards. Not sure I would use CLR with a aluminum head, it might be alright, they are using milder chemicals these days than they use to. I like your idea of the pool pump.

Chris

[heyitsrama]

CLR lists aluminium as something to avoid on there website, i have some evaporust sitting around ill throw that in there for starters, its mild enough to handle the aluminium and the iron. 

But that's after i get this resolved; I was able to get the motor on the floor,and get the trans + starter hooked up to it, i just need to figure how to setup the remote starter that my buddy let me borrow (dont wanna fry it) 

 

so from what i think i understand, i would want to;

1. ground the motor to the battery;
2. run a positive from the battery to the "b" post
3. run the remote starter off that same positive wire to the little tab for the starter......

i think, im not 100% on this remote starter, and dont wanna ruin it... 

 

[siteunseen]

The neg side of the battery goes to the top starter bolt. The positive goes to the solenoid post that's closet to the battery, not the closet to the block with the visable copper braided ground wire.

The remote starter goes on the positive post of the solenoid. The other clips onto spade plug in the middle, pull the small wire off first though.