Flying Z

[heyitsrama]

9 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

The neg side of the battery goes to the top starter bolt. The positive goes to the solenoid post that's closet to the battery, not the closet to the block with the visable copper braided ground wire.

The remote starter goes on the positive post of the solenoid. The other clips onto spade plug in the middle, pull the small wire off first though.

that worked out perfectly, ran into another issue with the compression checking tool, there is hose that goes into the spark tube, but it seems like there is a leak in the system, when i crank the motor it turns over super smooth, but does not retain pressure on the gauge. I switched out the hose fitting, with a smaller stub that i found, but it appears that there is still loss of pressure somewhere.... i think the hose to the gauge is leaking, there are some cracks on the hose itself... unless im running the test incorrectly.

 

The oiling is also concerning to me, just dont wanna run anything dry....

[siteunseen]

You should squirt some oil in the plug holes for sure. About a teaspoon' s worth.  It'll give you a better seal and show a truer reading. You should also cover the cam and valvetrain with oil.

My tester has a Schrader valve that could leak.  Also has an oring a the top of the threads that could be missing?  Does it have teflon tape on the gauge to the hose?

[heyitsrama]

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

You should squirt some oil in the plug holes for sure. About a teaspoon' s worth.  It'll give you a better seal and show a truer reading. You should also cover the cam and valvetrain with oil.

My tester has a Schrader valve that could leak.  Also has an oring a the top of the threads that could be missing?  Does it have teflon tape on the gauge to the hose?

I had to go to AutoZone twice to get a compression gauge that works. i oiled everything once again, and i did not realize that the motor does not have an oil pressure unit, and now i have a pool of oil on the floor. 

Dry:

1. 100
2. 60
3. 60
4. 100
5. 90
6. 60

Wet:

1. 110
2. 120
3. 105
4. 115
5. 100
6. 70

Not looking good, esp 70, looks like at this point the head is going to be removed to get a better inspection on the valves. I suspect beat valve seals, and piston rings.... i hope the bearings are within spec. 

[siteunseen]

Try a cold valve adjustment first. #6 might have a loose valve that's not sealing and loosing compression. 

[heyitsrama]

Just now, siteunseen said:

Try a cold valve adjustment first. #6 might have a loose valve that's not sealing and loosing compression. 

ill do it first thing in the morning, im glad i did not put it back on the stands, although i wont get my hopes too high? 

[rossiz]

squirting oil in the cylinders is a quick test for worn rings. if the numbers jump up (like yours did) then good chance you have worn rings and the oil helps seal things up. if you squirt oil and get little/no increase, then it can be valves, head gasket, or a broken ring. either way, pull the head and quick re-build (rings, bearings, gasket kit) is pretty cheap and can be done with basic hand tools. these blocks are tough - unless you have serious scoring i'll bet you get away with just a hone and deck to clean things up.

the head is another story - you can spend a bit more time and $$ there, but that's where the performance increases live...

[heyitsrama]

14 hours ago, rossiz said:

squirting oil in the cylinders is a quick test for worn rings. if the numbers jump up (like yours did) then good chance you have worn rings and the oil helps seal things up. if you squirt oil and get little/no increase, then it can be valves, head gasket, or a broken ring. either way, pull the head and quick re-build (rings, bearings, gasket kit) is pretty cheap and can be done with basic hand tools. these blocks are tough - unless you have serious scoring i'll bet you get away with just a hone and deck to clean things up.

the head is another story - you can spend a bit more time and $$ there, but that's where the performance increases live...

Yeah only going to be able to find out this information as the strip-down continues, a little bit hesitant to start the tear down because of the CB550 thats litterally infront of me that i have to finish off..... but i dont wanna waste time either. On the plus side, i bought (and built) tools that i needed for the honda, that should be usable with this L-series rebuild. I mean thats until i can find the pesos to get a DatsunWerks k24 head... Need to spend more time at cougar bars..  

• Any brand of gasket set you guys recommend? I need to start making a list of things that i need to get to refurbish this......

I need to find information regarding the front part  of the wiring harness, i think the dash section is present, and i would just have to deal with the front... [ SORRY FOR THE $^!# PHOTO TOO MANY SPIDER BROS IN THERE ] 

EDIT*** Does anyone know if the harness from 73 and 74 are interchangeable? Based on information from http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring it seems so.... If not whats the name of those 12 and 14 pin connectors that are green//brown/black?

Edited June 3, 2016 by heyitsrama

[heyitsrama]

Alright, I guess I should keep this thing updated, it would be super cool to be able to read. So far whats been done is

 

1. Motor torn down, washed, waiting for bearing inspection (no visible wear)
2. Chipped Harmonic Balancer (small chip like 1/3inch), pulled replacement today from a L28
3. Painted mounts / Oil pan 
4. Started working on repairing harness i picked up (going to integrate relays {front and rear} / replace the fuse links)

 

I need to :

1. Find a radiator (eBay? 2-3 layer?)
2. Finish measurements
3. Order rebuild parts
4. Finish painting block
5. Tear down head / Clean

So i went to a my dads friends local milling shop, and the spec of the cylinder bore was like 0.0004-0.0008 off maybe i was not properly using the tool, but this seems SUPER straight? Almost too good to be true....  

Im beginning to think that the only issue that was present was seating of the piston rings, and probably exhaust valve seat / seal. \

• What to y'all end up doing for radiator hoses on an aftermarket aluminum rad?
• Anyone have tips to get rid of spider bros, theres like some as big as my palm in my car  

I know everyone likes pics so here have some

 

 

I was at the junk yard the other day looking for a honda wiper motor, i look down at a car walking by, checking out if the motor was accessible, i turn around and this fire was brewing! turned out there was a fire at the recycling plant across the road. 

Edited July 11, 2016 by heyitsrama

[grannyknot]

Even with the billowing smoke, that is the tidiest wrecking yard I've ever seen, most of them look driveable.

[heyitsrama]

15 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Even with the billowing smoke, that is the tidiest wrecking yard I've ever seen, most of them look driveable.

Dude they charge too much for their stuff, a 91 honda wiper motor (26$) and 3 relays was 68 bucks, i nope and walked out. taking out the honda motor is a pain too, that 4th bolt on the lower side is a knuckle buster... pay a price for it to look nice i guess. 

[heyitsrama]

Alright: 

 

All parts are here for the rebuild, waiting on the valve spring compressor to come in the mail, then will clean everything off.

Waiting on a radiator, started making an ABS plastic relay box, and finish off wiring. 

 

On the downside my pops decided it was time to take all the popcorn off the ceilings of the house, and to repaint everything, so thats going to eat into my time. >.> its also almost finals time for summer session at school

[heyitsrama]

Currently:

Lower portion of the block is assembled; i ran into issues with the e88 head that came with the motor, everything was straight forward, except the bronze seats were not sitting properly, there was also a rounding taper on the valve face... if you want to read about that I started new thread

TLDR : I attempted to lap the valves, but the leakdown test i performed after assembly indicated that there was still heavy amount of air blowby from the seats.

I had two options 

1. get a new head
2. repair the old one ($375 in machining all valve seats (your machine shop might be cheaper), + $120 new valves + $80 new seats 

 

I went with the first option, and actually im kinda pissed off about it. When i was looking at the head, it looked immaculate from the resurfacing done on it, there was like a super bright shine. I saw it outside too, and attempted to give it a good over look, but ended up missing the small cracks located at the center head bolt hole. It does not seem that bad, but it appears that it should be slightly drilled out, and then filled in via tig welding.... 

 kinda upset about it, but you know its repairable. its also my fault for not inspecting it over with a comb.

 

 

 

I really just want to drive the damn car.... Classes start in 3 days, have to get it all sorted out by then. (o.0) 

 

What do you guys think about the crack? Repair it i assume? 

Ive been looking at some alluminum brazing / soldering, it seems doable...

Edited August 22, 2016 by heyitsrama