Flying Z

[Patcon]

If you look down the hole, the crack seems pretty deep and if you look closely at the head the crack seems to run between the two holes. The welding questions is probably better for the shop who will weld it

[heyitsrama]

Alright: well  this had not been updated for a while. 

 

Anyway it looks nice in there, it will look better when everything is up and running.

 

I need to get the fuel system sorted out, I've been debating if I want to keep the mechanical fuel pump. The last one that was on the l24 I had  was very leaky. and I do like how it cleans the engine bay. But im all about function over form, so if it helps prevent vapor lock then why not.

Not sure how the wiring is in on the fuel stuff however, there are 3 tubes present that run back to the fuel tank? I thought the return would be on the other side, where the carburator is.

I also have an issue with the header, i had an E30 stock header that came with the L26 motor, but the stock exhaust that I have does not meet the length, and clear the bellhousing for the trans.

I also have a beat up N33 one, which fit with the exhaust and i dont think there would be any issues with it. HOWEVER, its super rusted. 

There is also the issue of that tube thing that is sticking out and all beat up. There was a screw thing holding it on, but i attempted to remove it, and ended up breaking it.....

At this point the rust looks like it fused the metal together... damn ions. There are also these little tube things that go into the head on the exhaust ports? It looks like the E30 head had them shaved down, im not sure the purpose of them? They might be smog related, but I did not plan to run smog equipment on this car.....

 

And the harness needs to get built still. Ive been acquiring more connectors off Z cars from junk yards, hoping to make a full relatively stock harness. 

Need to order a Clutch MC, the MC Slave for the trans // hose. and also need to get a new MC for the brakes. I have a 15/16" master sitting around that looks rebuilt, but the bolt pattern is horizontal not vertical. (normally you cant use this type?) BUT the booster I have looks like its made for horizontal bolts because it has an adapter plate on it, what gives?

I have new plastics for the master, but am unsure if this would be usable in the setup that I have, i also have some S14+ (i think thats the casting?) 4Runner brakes that might be upgradeable.... I kinda just wanna drive the car, so getting anxious now :0

 

I also did a brass bushing upgrade to the non-existant trans bushing. 

 

Questions :

 

Do the tubes that run into the head from the header matter? What about that broken bolt/tube thing near the flange? Do i seal that up with JB weld?

Mechanical Fuel pump? Delete or keep? Helps prevent vapor lock?

Master Cylinders? What brand do you guys replace with? I got some DEA engine mounts and they are $^!#, neither of them align with the posts (if anyone needs them ill send them to you just ask)

Transmission Insulator brand? I see some aftermarket ones for 4-7$ but im not sure if its not going to align up like the DEA ones i got. Any recommendation?

Edited November 22, 2016 by heyitsrama

[Patcon]

The tubes on the exhaust manifold are for the smog pump. They can be deleted as long as you don't have to pass "smog". Sometimes they can be threaded out and a brass plug threaded in but sometimes they won't come out. I have actually filled some like that with JB Weld and that worked fine. The rusty exhaust manifold would clean up with bead blasting. I like the mechanical fuel pump, keep it if you can. There is a thread on here somewhere that tells you how to rebuild a mechanical fuel pump.

[Zed Head]

I've used ceramic muffler repair compound to seal an EGR supply hole (I think that's one you're looking at), after I forced a bolt in to the hole.  You can make a bolt in to a self-thread-cutting bolt by grinding a notch into the threads.  The exhaust manifold gets very hot further down where it's not cooled by the head, I'm not sure that JB Weld would last long there.

Take the old MC off and measure how deep the socket is for the rod from the booster.  It needs to be the same distance so that the booster rod will work correctly.  But if you get another booster you might have to do some more measuring.  If the booster's not already shot it probably won't last long.  Consider preventive replacement.

I have an Autozone Duralast insulator/mount and it seemed of decent quality and fit and works fine.

[heyitsrama]

15 hours ago, Patcon said:

The tubes on the exhaust manifold are for the smog pump. They can be deleted as long as you don't have to pass "smog". Sometimes they can be threaded out and a brass plug threaded in but sometimes they won't come out. I have actually filled some like that with JB Weld and that worked fine. The rusty exhaust manifold would clean up with bead blasting. I like the mechanical fuel pump, keep it if you can. There is a thread on here somewhere that tells you how to rebuild a mechanical fuel pump.

I was thinking about it the other day when i realized that with a single one being so old, there is chance that it would be on its way out, it just seems good to at least one backup, i mean triple A only does 100 miles for "free"... 

14 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I've used ceramic muffler repair compound to seal an EGR supply hole (I think that's one you're looking at), after I forced a bolt in to the hole.  You can make a bolt in to a self-thread-cutting bolt by grinding a notch into the threads.  The exhaust manifold gets very hot further down where it's not cooled by the head, I'm not sure that JB Weld would last long there.

Take the old MC off and measure how deep the socket is for the rod from the booster.  It needs to be the same distance so that the booster rod will work correctly.  But if you get another booster you might have to do some more measuring.  If the booster's not already shot it probably won't last long.  Consider preventive replacement.

I have an Autozone Duralast insulator/mount and it seemed of decent quality and fit and works fine.

I'll try some of the high heat JBweld, or maybe something else at the hardware store, I kinda wish i had a way to weld it up. But those old manifolds are cast iron? Arc welding / stick welding might do it... <1000*F? 

Same case for break booster? Any particular brand for these MC? I'm inclined to get beck n arnley, i did like their timing kit i got a few months ago, and try to get that insulator too, thanks for the advise

[heyitsrama]

Updates: 12/26 

Happy Christmas / Holidays Everyone

 

Ive been slowly working on the Z, my school finals are complete so I have more time to kill on this.

So i snapped a exhaust stud (#1), said **** drilling it out because i was off center and messed it all up. Going to Helicoil it at some point, not now, i just put everything back together, it seems like its going to be able to hold.

 

{^thread that has dizzy information, my manual was missing some of this }

Working on the harness right now; the distributor on the engine i got was a D614-52 off an automatic 240z, but it was modified with a removed section of points, this

confused the crap outta me until i pulled it apart and looked for the clean markings from where the points plate was screwed into the distributor.

{^thread reference to the auto dual -> pertronix conversion}

I got stuck with the transistorized ignition system thats on the 260z  ( i have 2, one with the body, one with the hacked harness i bought). Im reading online that theses electronics crap out randomly (being old electronics). So i do plan to move away from this type of ignition. I was hoping to just get a Pertronix Ignition upgrade, because that seems to be the most reliable. BUT will only do it if i can keep the old tack, i dont have a ballast resistor, so i need to go 3ohm.

HOWEVER i am going to leave the wiring in the engine bay for all the little electronics/sensors that the transistorized ignition needs, I just want it close to OEM spec..... It appears that some other person on this form upgraded a dualpoint auto dizzy to use the PT ignition, I think im going to attempt to install this dizzy that i have, then later get the PT Ignition.

I need to figure out what to do for the front light terminal connectors, i cant find anything good online, except Vintage Connections (but they are having server issues right now)

Information needed:

• Anyone have a old dizzy single point, that i can upgrade to a pertronix ignition, that they dont need?
• Is it cool to even run a Dual Point Dizzy, with the second point removed? It seems like it should be fine because the 2nd is just for emmissions...
• Anyone have a throttle linkage piece that goes from a 260z, to a round top carb? It seems that the old 260z one does not reach all the way...
• Headlight / Sidelight / Frontlight terminal connections? 4-3way plugs + 2-2wayPlugs i think Dave might have some that he's stashed away...

Edited December 27, 2016 by heyitsrama

[grannyknot]

8 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Headlight / Sidelight / Frontlight terminal connections? 4-3way plugs + 2-2wayPlugs i think Dave might have some that he's stashed away...

http://vintageconnections.com/

[heyitsrama]

http://vintageconnections.com/

I swear granny last night the website was down!
This guy lives down the street, I really want to just go over and ask for the parts. >.>

But I have to order some more 10guage wire for the headlights.
For the positive battery is 2/0 commonly used?

[Zed Head]

13 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Working on the harness right now; the distributor on the engine i got was a D614-52 off an automatic 240z, but it was modified with a removed section of points, 

I got stuck with the transistorized ignition system thats on the 260z  ( i have 2, one with the body, one with the hacked harness i bought).

i dont have a ballast resistor, so i need to go 3ohm.

HOWEVER i am going to leave the wiring in the engine bay for all the little electronics/sensors that the transistorized ignition needs,

Here's a couple of Articles on electronic ignition.  The various extra sensors outside of the distributor are for emissions purposes, to run that extra pickup coil and change the timing based on engine temperature.  If you're only using one pickup you don't need them, you can simplify.  The electronic ignitions use ~ one ohm coils and no ballast.  The common early Pertronix swap isn't a "high-energy" system like the later electronic systems (GM HEI, for example), or the 1978 and on 280Z systems.  It's "poinless" so lower maintenance but there are better options out there.

http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical/replacing-the-280z-tiu-with-an-hei-module-r67/

http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical/gm-hei-module-install-r69/

 

[heyitsrama]

Here's a couple of Articles on electronic ignition.  The various extra sensors outside of the distributor are for emissions purposes, to run that extra pickup coil and change the timing based on engine temperature.  If you're only using one pickup you don't need them, you can simplify.  The electronic ignitions use ~ one ohm coils and no ballast.  The common early Pertronix swap isn't a "high-energy" system like the later electronic systems (GM HEI, for example), or the 1978 and on 280Z systems.  It's "poinless" so lower maintenance but there are better options out there.
http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical/replacing-the-280z-tiu-with-an-hei-module-r67/
http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical/gm-hei-module-install-r69/
 

It's interesting that this l26 I picked up does not have any of the emissions temperature sensors on it, either it was removed or not included.

Did the 260z have a bracket with all the electronics next to the battery?

I was reading over that last night, seems like a good upgrade for increased spark.
Does it require one of the newer distributors with the gear-like mechanism inside the cap?

[grannyknot]

4 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

For the positive battery is 2/0 commonly used?

#2 is plenty big enough, if I remember right the stock battery cable was #4 or maybe smaller.

[Zed Head]

8 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Did the 260z have a bracket with all the electronics next to the battery?
Does it require one of the newer distributors with the gear-like mechanism inside the cap?

The ignition module for the 260Z is by the fuse box n the cabin.  It's a cool-looking finned aluminum case.

The gear-like thing is called a reluctor (wheel) and the trigger signal is generated when the metal tooth passes by the magnetic pickup coil.  The FSM describes it well, at least the 1976 version does.

If you start messing with different distributors, check the breaker plate action before you get too involved.  Thee are many distributors out there that will trigger the ignition module just fine but won't have a usable vacuum advance mechanism.