280z windshield

[Dave WM]

Local installer wants 300$ labor, I supply gasket, has the stainless trim. He says they work on old cars knew about the trim piece right off.

I experimented on removing one from a junker, seemed easy enough just cut out the old rubber gasket from the top, gently push out from inside.

Seen the youtube tool using a string inserted into channel that fits on the body, then place glass with gasket (and trim in stalled) on opening and draw strings from inside to pull the gasket edge in and over the lip.

So is this really that hard to do? the install that is. I am willing to spend the money if its a major pain.

oh one more question, I see the gasket goes for about 50-60 most places, but then a site called vintage rubber has it for 135$

Does anyone know if the VR one is different (better) to justify the added expense?

One last source was courtesy Nissan, but that was 300$ for the gasket

 

 

Edited June 13, 2016 by Dave WM

[Mark Maras]

 I haven't installed a Z windshield (yet) but have done a few with gaskets in the past. A helper or two (more hands) to support and position the windshield while pulling the cord makes the job much easier. Before the days of string trimmer cord I used electrical wire. Anything strong and low friction works good.

 

[SteveJ]

Have you searched here for threads on windshield installation? I could have sworn I've seen some over the years. Search over at zcar.com, too.

[Zed Head]

I've read posts from guys who had one of those on-site companies install a windshield, for much much less, and the company brought the windshield with them, from stock.  $300 is 6 hours at $50/hour.  Seems steep.  Maybe if he guaranteed the installation, with windshield replacement if he breaks it, and the windshield was very very hard to find, like Rolls Royce hard-to-find.  But that's not the case here.  I'd look for someone else, myself.

Windshields are not generally hard to install, for any car.  I've done a few old Chevys, not too hard.  Surface prep and sealing are the difficult part, and it's mostly just time-consuming detail stuff.  

[Dave WM]

I am leaning towards buying the cheap gasket and doing myself unless someone chimes in that the 60$ is junk and I need to spend 300$ on the Nissan OE gasket. From what I have read its not hard but good to have extra set of hands. The problem is a leak, I hope when I remove the gasket there will not be a rust issue. I don't think there will be based on what I have seen. The leak seems to happen around the glass/gasket joint on the bottom ends. I thought about sealer but then figured if that does not work it may make it harder to remove the glass. the thing is the rubber is in good shape overall just a lose fit on the bottom corners.

Edited June 13, 2016 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

Have you read the Body chapter section on the windshield?  Describes installation, and also a sealer that they use between the glass and seal.  If the seal is still flexible you might be able to reuse it, with sealant, although their removal procedure is destructive.  They also talk about sealing leaks.  It's a good read!

[dmorales-bello]

I supplied the windshield, rubber and trim and had a professional do the installation for $85. Took him about 20 minutes with no issues at all. 

Edited June 13, 2016 by dmoralesbello

[Patcon]

I have done one before. 80% is pretty easy. the last little bit makes you sweat a little bit because the windshield flexes as it comes in the frame. Extra hands help as the windshield wants to move away from the side that is already installed. $300 in labor seems a little steep...

[Mark Maras]

I was quoted $125.00 labor, in Portland, to R&R the windshield in the 81 RX7 if I R&R the moldings, and I can watch too. Probably more if I help. It's the same type windshield, gasket and moldings as the Z's. For that price, I'll let someone else do it.

[Dave WM]

5 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Have you read the Body chapter section on the windshield?  Describes installation, and also a sealer that they use between the glass and seal.  If the seal is still flexible you might be able to reuse it, with sealant, although their removal procedure is destructive.  They also talk about sealing leaks.  It's a good read!

The seal is very pliable still. I bet its only a few years old since the paint job looks a few years old and it was painted with the gasket out (no paint lines show). I suspect its just not a tight fit to start with, which makes me wonder if its an aftermarket gasket and if so do the after markets fit tightly. I will post up some video later, and will go back and read the FSM body chapter you mentioned.

[Dave WM]

5 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Have you read the Body chapter section on the windshield?  Describes installation, and also a sealer that they use between the glass and seal.  If the seal is still flexible you might be able to reuse it, with sealant, although their removal procedure is destructive.  They also talk about sealing leaks.  It's a good read!

The seal is very pliable still. I bet its only a few years old since the paint job looks a few years old and it was painted with the gasket out (no paint lines show). I suspect its just not a tight fit to start with, which makes me wonder if its an aftermarket gasket and if so do the after markets fit tightly. I will post up some video later, and will go back and read the FSM body chapter you mentioned.

[Dave WM]

Good read. FSM clearly state use of adhesive, both when applying the gasket to the glass and then again the periphery after install. I can't see any evidence of an adhesive at all on mine (which I am sure is not the orig, its just too nice). The FSM also say to install the moulding strip AFTER the windshield is installed. I have read repeatedly that its best to install this after the rubber is on the glass but BEFORE the glass is in the car. In the A-A cross sectional view I can see how if water gets under the gasket at the body joint, its going to just sit in a V groove, not good.

I am going to try getting some soapy water on the perimeter of the outside of the glass and try blowing compressed air around the the perimeter to judge just where  and how bad a leak I may have.

found this, looks like a nice combo

https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-181AG-Adhesive-Pump/dp/B006JFM1AW/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41k3boTpP7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=6WSGM405AP4AA5ERGJHD

 

Edited June 14, 2016 by Dave WM