Proportioning valve question

[Kirakami]

So i just got done putting in the ZCarDepot rear sport disk kit and i also ordered the MSA 4 piston caliper kit. I also put in a 1" wilwood master cylinder and a brand new booster. I know i need to put my new proportioning valve on the rear brake line. but the question is ive seen a bunch of posts about the stock proportioning valve needing to be hollowed out. but no ones done a full diy (with pics) as far as i can see. The few posts ive come a crossed, ive had people arguing about how it is or isn't a proportioning valve. the picture below is this the stock proportioning valve ? Or is it a distribution block ? Or is it both ?... Do i just pull all the parts inside out or can i just delete this item ? Long story short where is the proportioning valve (Pic please) and what needs to be done so that i can take my car out without having the brakes constantly rubbing or having bias issues ? 

My car is a 1972 240z BTW i know some years are different... Also this is not my car. its a 260z but the pic shows what im asking about.

Edited June 15, 2016 by Kirakami

[grannyknot]

What you are showing in your post is the distribution block/safety switch, the proportioning valve is at the back of the car above the diff. next to the rear distribution block. The easiest way is to remove the stock proportioning valve entirely and install the new adjustable proportioning valve up front in the engine bay. Like this,http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/wilwood-proportion-valve

[Kirakami]

Ok i think i know what your talking about. so i don't have to touch the distribution block at all and remove the valve in the very back before the t block.

[EuroDat]

It's a safety device. You should leave it as original. It will warn you of pending brake failure.

The proprtioning valve was down the back just before the tee. After July 72 it move to the engine bay. You would do better buying one in the link grannyknot supplied. You will need to fine tune it to get the right balance. The OEM won't do that and probably won't even be close to the balance you need.

I cleaned mine up a couple of years back.

 

[Kirakami]

ya i already have a wilwood proportion valve. ya i was planning on removing the stock one. i just wanted to make sure i was looking at the right part. 

[Zed Head]

At last you're on the correct end of the car now.  Still more to the puzzle though.

 

[Kirakami]

thanks for all the help ladies and gentlemen. i feel like i have enough info to finish my brake conversion. now if msa would get my rotors in and send them along with my calipers id be set

[Kirakami]

i pulled the proportion valve and i was going to gut it but i happened to buy a couple union fittings. so the lines from the master cylinder and the ones that goes to the T block were close enough that i could tweek it by hand to get both sides hooked up. took like 5 minutes .... thanks again everyone.

[Mike W]

Just wanting to really understand what you did. 

Did you connect the master directly to the proportioning valve in some way or did you just bypass the OEM proportioning valve?  Is the front splitter block still in place?

Mike.

[Kirakami]

so the front distrabution block i left as is (#8 in above picture) since it shouldnt mess with my 4 piston front brakes and my rear maxima brakes. i removed the stock proportion valve(#10) and used a union fitting to connet the two lines. the reason why i removed it is because its not set for my new setup. so im putting in a new adjustable wilwood proportion valve. that clarify what i did ?

[AndyStep12]

Kirakami, how’d you get those hard lines between your master cylinder and the safety switch?  Mine are stripped. 

Edited December 5, 2017 by AndyStep12