I made a cheap imitation while waiting for Randalla to build more. Sharing here incase anyone else wants to try, and I also have a question. I bought these polypropelene elbos on amazon and attached clear hose at the barb end. I also used an o-ring at the threads. This material doesn't dissolve in gasoline at room temp but I probably won't use these with engine hot. Anyway, my question is about the ideal level. I read that with float-sync the ideal level is 14mm above the top of the metal base. My question is what is the length from the top edge of the bolt on float-sync to the top of the metal base? Adding that to the 14mm should allow me to get close with these. Any help appreciated. The picture at the end shoes the level my front carb is at now after using the method of 0.55" gap between top of float and lid. I think it's too low. 

I couldn't get the .55 dvd on SUs to work. I took the lids off and put them on top of a small glass with the floats moving up and down free. They are finally doing as when new.

Here's the measurement I used from @zKars if I remember right.

 

I wanted to say if you did what that dvd shows, turn the lids upside down, you'll never get close. You can by lids right side up, blow through the fuel in bung and measure until you get it to shut off at .55". You'll need to do it in front of a mirror and it's still hard to do. The new needle valves we get today aren't able to hold the floats weight upside down like the Grose valves did when they made that video.

I got halfway up Cheaha mountain when my front bowl ran out of fuel. It was running on 4 5 and 6 cylinders. I rolled it backwards perpendicular to the road and spun it until the bowl filled back up. Had to do that 3 times maybe until I got to the top of the mountain. I was so mad when I got home, finally, I figured out a way to mimic the carb float bowls and got them dead on. I try to get it to run bad but no way. Carbs that are right are unbeatable.

This is what I read that gave the right ideas...

 

 

Edited March 11, 20232 yr by siteunseen

I accidentally chipped the float on my back carb while tuning😭it was a stupid mistake but I didnt know how brittle these are. Need to get a replacement. People are really price gouging for these one ebay. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement for a reasonable price. 

I edited the post to come clean about how this happened. Normally when I put the lids back on I insert a small flat screwdriver through the drain plug to gently push up on the float while blowing through the input port. I do this before tightening down the screws to make sure that the float doesn't get stuck open. This usually works well and prevents the float stuck problem which necessitates immediate disassembly again. Anyway, today when I reached that point in my process I had this pick in my hand and lazily tried to use it instead of the small screwdriver. The pick must have turned sliglty and snagged on the float as I was pulling it out. Also by the way, I apologize if i'm misusing this old thread with this side topic and long explanation. 

Edited March 13, 20232 yr by RubenD

Z Therapy has reproduced the floats and have done a very nice job of it.

Thanks zspert! I spoke with Bruce at Ztherapy today and he confirmed they have them and they're $50. He also said I shouldn't worry about the small divot in my float because they're made of foam, not hollow as I assumed. 

I've wondered if that foam would absorb any fuel making them heavier? Seems like it would.

@Captain Obvious after your float work do you think they could absorb any fluid? 

My goodness! Why take a chance? We're talking about a 50 year old part.

 

 

 

 I believe they're closed cell foam. An easy test would be weigh it, submerge it in fuel for a day or two and reweigh it.

5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

after your float work do you think they could absorb any fluid? 

My work leads me to believe that they would not absorb fluid.

That said, however... If I have a damaged one and a non-damaged one, I'ma gonna use the undamaged one.   

I wonder if new floats from ztherapy would make the fuel level in the chambers be at the correct 23mm down from the lids? Seems like they would.

Has anybody bought these and what were the results if you don't mind sharing?

$50 would be a drop in the bucket compared to the year of frustration I dealt with trying to set mine the "easy" way of .55" measurement.