'72 in Lexington SC

[Smokey]

Found another Z I will be looking into. This one is in Lexington SC. It is a '72, but the ad tells nothing about it. Just says looks and runs great. It is black, so I know it has been painted, but then again, my first Z was a black '72. Anyone know anything about this car?

Looks pretty nice, but body work can be very misleading. The one thing that it has going for it, is the black paint. Pretty hard to hide body work under black. Gonna try and call in the morning.

I just can't shake the desire for one of these cars.

[Alfadog]

mm looks good except for the illusion which makes the side windows look way out of proportion to the body.

If you have a black Z you need tint.

[tibZ]

I thought about calling on this car too. But as you mentioned the black paint has left me wondering. For instance was it completly stripped down before paint? It would look lousy if you opened the door and found lime green door sills or a red engine bay. Let us know what you find out.

[Smokey]

Talked to the guy briefly while at work. The car sounds pretty good. He has owned it for 4 years, and bought it from Orlando Fl. It has been a Fl car all it's life up till now.

The motor has been replaced less than 5K miles ago with a .30 over 260 motor with early E88 head. It has the hottest cam that can be put in without affecting drivability. The SU's have been dumped for triple Mikunies. It has full electric ignition, original 4spd tranny, and diff.

The floor pans have been completely replaced and are in excellent shape, and the frame rails are original with no rust. There are some rust bubbles forming at the bottoms of the doors and around the gas lid. The rubber has been replaced on both doors and hatch.

The mechanical work was done by the Z Doctor in Florida. The body was originally Silver, but the last owner (had 3 owners to this point) had it sprayed Laquer black. The engine bay is still Silver, with no rust around the battery. The interior is red.

He will be sending pictures soon. This sounds pretty good, but we shall see.

[tibZ]

This 70 is in NC.Don't know if you've seen the ad.

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/0/2/43856602.htm It was on ebay a month ago, starting bid was $8800. It didn't get any bids. Looks to be a nice "original". My original opinion was it would sell really quick it it was 7-8K.

[Smokey]

Yeah, I saw that car . Believe me, it is not near the car Barry thinks it is.

BTW, the black one does not have a heater core. I have heard they are tuff to get a hold of. The A/C also needs charging. And, again, the front suspension needs rebuilding--Shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings. The rear brakes need to be replaced too. We shall see.

[Smokey]

Quick question on this car. It does not have a heater core, and therefore no heat. How difficult is it to find a heater core?

Ahhh Hell, I just got some pictures of this car--I can wear a jacket:love:

I need to find a way to call dibbs on this car till I can get down to SC to see it.

[2ManyZs]

If it's just a heater core missing, MSA has them for about 150 new in their latest catalog.

[Bambikiller240]

Companies that make radiators also can make heater cores, all you would need to find is the tanks (top and bottom) and a core can be built to fit.

If all you are looking for is a heater core, it is not a big deal. BUT, you will need to have all of the ancillary parts to the heater system. Those are getting difficult to find, I'm told.

[Smokey]

He only mentioned the heater core. I assume the box and the other parts are there. I know the AC works, but is out of R-12 (so he says).

Also the car has an L26 block with the L24 crank and rods. Its been bored .30 over with the Early E88 head and a hot cam. The induction is 3x Mikunis. Is this a good setup? He speaks highly of the drivability.

[2ManyZs]

If you need the heater hoses and water control valve, that's a no-biggie.... I know where you can get that all for under 100 bucks....

Motor sounds OK, as long as it's in tune and has been kept that way it sounds good... although, I'd have gone with an L-28 bottom end and started with a bigger displacement from the start.

[Smokey]

Yeah, I would have gone with a L28 short block too. According to the owner, the "Z Doctor" in Fl was restoring a 260 and had pulled the engine out. This was the donor block on this 240. Motor only has 4600 miles on it, and is in tune. He says that it pulls strong all the way to 6500RPM.