Good 4th of July Morning to all...

I've been studying my FSM this morning to get a feel for the AC unit in RB.  Took it outside and compared the pictures with actual parts.  This is what I found, and posting photos of same.  

 

 

 

Rats... not all photos made it.  

The first one on the post above is the dryer.

The second one is a hole in the top right corner of the condenser.

The first one on this post is showing the whole shebang.

The second one on this post shows the hose leading from the dryer, heading towards the compressor.  It has 2 clamps on it, but nothing in between except a metal tube.

This last photo here, is the final end of the hose that is split, and disconnected from the condenser (?).

That's all the photos I took.  If you want more, just ask, and tell me exactly of what.

Thank you everyone...

Jai

Clearly after market AC, back off on the pic with the circle spot not sure what I am looking at.

Good thing is you don't have the expensive drier.

OK. So that's an aftermarket setup. Not factory. The receiver dryer is a universal one and should be relatively easy to find.

Those hoses with clamps are Mickey Mouse. Those all need to be remade. Fortunately it is relatively easy to get AC shops or Hydraulic shops to make the proper hoses with the correct AC couplers.

Edit:  Dave and I were typing at the same time.

Edited July 4, 20168 yr by Chickenman

Take some pictures of the compressor so we can see what was put on. Also where the hoses go into the firewall so we can see the fitting types ( I'm expecting more clamps... Ugggh!! ) . Take some pictures of AC/Heater control panel so we can see what was installed. Aftermarket types sometimes added the AC control bodged on to the side of the center console.

ok re read your post if that is the condenser (front of car) and its got a split/hole, then obviously you will need a new condenser. To that the drier will need to be replaced as well. Hopefully the rest is ok (compressor/evap/expansion valve).

Anyway you go about it you will need to get to a shop can replace what you have since its not factory so you cant just order up parts.

Replace the condenser/drier and all the hoses. If the compressor is not locked you can try it from there, pull vacuum, if it holds add oil charge and Freon and see what happens. Its going to be a crap shoot. if the evap is bad it will shoot upwards a lot for the labor to pull the evap from the dash. By then you have replaced everything and you are at the 1500-2000 level for a shop to do it.

If your lucky replacing the condenser/hoses/drier and recharge more like 500$ again this is very rough pricing depends on the shops in your area.

Edited July 4, 20168 yr by Dave WM

yea CkMan need more pics of the compressor and inside as well. It may have something other than the factory evap, in which case just more stuff to try and figure out.

Ok, I'll go out when the heat gets down a little bit.

 The hole in the condenser was hard to even get my cell phone in to take a photo to begin with.  Will try again tho.

Ugh, the compressor is down below a lot of things.  Will do my best.  Oh,  I forgot to say, on the top of it, is a black wire all wadded up, connected to the compressor but the other end is free.  I'll try to photo that too.

Thank you gentlemen...

Jai

 

 

 

'96 Sentra for sale, $800 to a friend, $1,000 to a stranger.  A man that sleeps in this heat has to make mortgage payments regardless. 8^)

Refraction: car's being sold to my niece. 

Edited July 4, 20168 yr by siteunseen
spelling

That wire is prob for the compressor clutch.

Since its not factory anyway, the best thing would be to just replace EVERYTHING forward of the firewall and hope the evap is ok. Would be a good idea to remove the expansion valve (do not need to pull the evap to do that IF its a factory evaporator). Clean it, replace O rings check it for function. Button up the evap with cleaned expansion valve then all new stuff. I am saying this cause if you want a reliable AC that pretty much what you will need to do. I do things in stages but that's cause I can do the work myself, but that is not the best for all folks.

edit on removal of the exp valve, SHOULD be able to remove with out pulling the evap BUT if its in there and stuck from lack of use, it could be a problem getting out of the housing.

Based on what I have seen, its likely that you could have corrosion in there as well.

Edited July 4, 20168 yr by Dave WM

Retraction! Can't do squat from my phone. Locks up every time. 8^(