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280z Deconstruction


DoubleYOOHZ

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They are Toyota 1989 4 runner V6 turbo calipers commonly known as the S12-W caliper and the rotor is from the 1984 300ZX N/A with a spacer kit.

I think you can order those kits from silvermine motor sport. Google "datsun 240Z brake upgrade s12-w" and you will find info on it. I think this kit is stage 3 or maybe 4.

The other common upgrade is the 1979-84 Toyota 4 runner S12-8 calipers on standard rotors. 1984 Maxima disc brake rear with adapter plate.

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6 minutes ago, DoubleYOOHZ said:

@cbuczesk- If i went with the 15x8, wouldnt the wheel need to be a negative offset to fit my situation? The rims I am running are factory 6 spoke rims for the 77 year. Tires on the side wall list as P205/70R14. I really had no intentions of getting flares but if i Have to i do not mind. When you said rubbing, I am assuming when the front wheels is positioned as wide as possible rubbing with the fenders? 

You're going to have to ask someone running a 15x8 about those specifics. 0 or -10 might work but you might have to run narrow tires so they don't rub. You need to see what tire sizes are available in 15, 16 and 17" before getting rims. It's getting harder to find the correct size tires for 15" wheels. I run 225/45-15 tires on my race car and have to roll the wheel lips.

You might mind getting flares. There's the cost of the flares and the installation. The wheel wells have to be cut and the rear inner fenders need to be welded and sealed to the quarters. To properly fill out the flares you'll want 8 or 9" wide rims and really wide tires. That adds to the budget.

The rubbing I had on my street Z was with the inner lip of the 15x7 wheel against the caliper. Depending on the tires and wheels you get you could have rub with the caliper/wheel, strut/tire and fender lip/tire.

What are you looking for with tires and rims? The widest that fit under the fenders? Widest that fit with flares? Wide wheels and stretched tires?

Chuck

 

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15 hours ago, DoubleYOOHZ said:

 

@beermanpete-WIth the factory wheel mounting flange, wouldnt it block certain rim/wheels? (The pointy end of the 16 mm spacer?) 

With all this, using an offset wheel or not, are there any concerns for the lug nuts? I mean, my lug nuts rotate in maybe ~1 inch? 
Thanks all for the replys.

The wheels are designed to mate to the mounting flange so, no, there will not be any restrictions due to the flange size.

Regarding wheel and tire size combinations: We have (and many others have as well) 15" x 7" wheels with 225/50-15 tires that fit on a stock car with no problem. However, the fit is close so the wheel offset/backspace is critical. The offset needs to be zero for this size combination to fit. The limiting factor on the inside is the spring and its perch. The tire sidewall will rub on the spring perch if the wheel is too far inboard. Using an 16" or 17" rim should allow using an 8" wide rim if the aspect ration is less (35 or 40 perhaps) which will result in a similar tire diameter and cross-section width while achieving a larger tread width (tire sizes are cross-section, not tread width).

The wheel studs and nuts can be a bit tricky on the Z due to the uncommon thread size (M12 x 1.25). Changing the studs to an M12 x 1.50 allows for a better selection of lug nuts but is not absolutely required. We installed ARP studs made for a Camaro/Firebird that fit without modifying the hubs that are M12 x 1.50 and 3" long. While this is a bit long for closed end nuts there is a shorter version available and they can be shorted if needed.This allows a much better selection of nuts from common sources.

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2 hours ago, DoubleYOOHZ said:

 The rims I am running are factory 6 spoke rims for the 77 year. Tires on the side wall list as P205/70R14. I really had no intentions of getting flares but if i Have to i do not mind. 

I had a certain 205-70-14 tire (can't remember which brand) on my factory alloy wheels and they rubbed slightly when cornering hard.  I think it was just a touch on the fender lip.  Rolling it probably would have fixed it, but I got new tires of the same size and it stopped.  That's on a lowered car, Tokico springs on a 280Z.  There's not a ton of room in there.

Control arm bushings might play a part also, but, somewhat ironically, the loose factory rubber might be better to avoid rubbing since it lets the body move away from the outside tire, which tends to get closer to the fender lip on a hard corner.

Lots to think about.  I've had a whole range of cars over the years that rubbed, from the inner fender well to the outer edge.  How you plan to use the car matters.

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@cbuczesk-I am thinking that I have to buy negative offset rims. I looked at the car again today and I was scavenging what might be problems for larger wheels. Looks to me that my suspension might be an issue since it seems be be maybe 3.5 inches away from the wheel.
@beermanpete& @Zed HeadThanks for updating me on that.I was looking down under today and I saw the springs to be a small inconvenience. The wheel was maybe 3 or 3.5 inches away from the spring. So getting a wider wheel seems to be on the contrary. If I believe what I see is right, the car seems to upgraded to edibach springs and lowered an 1inches to 1.25 inches.   

Please dont crucify me but I was going for a flushed look like Bobby Rosillo's 240z with similar rims ( Rota RKR). http://www.enginethusiast.com/wanagan-midnight-bobby-1972-datsun-240z-1974-mazda-rx3/  He seems to be running 15x9 on all 4 corners... if i understand correctly. How is his car flush when those rims come in negative offsets? Would running 15x9 (or even 15x8)  Rota RKR with 0 offset be better off for me or do i need a negative offset to avoid rubbing? 

 

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18 hours ago, DoubleYOOHZ said:

...How is his car flush when those rims come in negative offsets?...

Those tires are small and stretched. It looks like they are 195s, best that I can tell from the photos. This keeps them away from the spring and strut tube. Also, that car has coilovers so there is more room for the wheel and tire in the inboard side. Since this is the look you are after try contacting the car owner and the shop where it was made. They will likely tell you what they did and what parts they used.

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