Engine Mount Insulator - pilot hole issue?

[GV Z Car]

Wondering if anybody else has gone down this road. Purchased engine mount insulators (aftermarket) for a '71 240Z....noticed the pilot hole does not line up.

Should I..

1) Grind off the pilot hole "peg".

2) Drill a new pilot hole on the cross member (hate to do that...spent a lot of time/ money eliminating holes on the shell).

3) Search for a different Engine mount insulator.

 

[siteunseen]

I just went through this too!  Bought some and found that then bought another set, same thing.  I ended up using a modified Beck Arnley set.

I wish I'd taken a picture for you but what I did was take a flat file to the circle.  I filed it and checked, filed more checked more until it finally sat flat.  The best way I can describe it would be make a D shape out of the O. 

Once you get the it all bolted up and the weight of the motor on there, there won't be any movement.  I've checked mine time and time again during the break-in, I've got about 500 miles on there now and all is good.

Oh yeah, use the thickness? side of the file and put the mounts in a bench vise.  My file was about 1/4" thick and that's about the same as the dimple.

One more oh yeah.  Those cheap a** "Anchor" brand are trash, the rubber doesn't even line up with the motor mounts.  The Beck Arnley's were the best I could find on my budget.

[Zed Head]

Do you mean the peg, not the circle?  Basically made a 1/2 peg?

You could also file the peg down flat,then drill and tap a hole n the right spot.  Run a small bolt through, or just a press fit rivet in an unthreaded hole, and you have a new peg.

Looks like the mounts changed in 73. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/manual-from-c-hls30-46001-rls30-grls30

[siteunseen]

Yes, the peg is what I filed down.  The ones I have didn't require too much material be removed.

[siteunseen]

The Anchor brand also had the nuts welded on already. 

[GV Z Car]

I think I might try filing the peg down.

Thanks siteunseen.

[GV Z Car]

Zed Head, thank you for the response.

Most of the aftermarket motor mounts offered now are a "one-size-fits-all" (70-78 years) now which looks like is not true for the 70 -72 models without modification.

OEM versions are nla.

[siteunseen]

You are very welcome, glad I could pass along a problem's solution as you've discovered above.  One size does not fit all. 

[GV Z Car]

After going to look closer at the alignment of the pilot pin it appears that I would file off most of it to have it line up. Question I have is why not just shear the whole pin off? Does it add any structural support for the engine mount? I suspect it just helps in the alignment of the actual motor mount bolts to the insulator. I am thinking with the pilot peg sheared off one would have to be careful when installing the engine but could get around not having the alignment pegs on the insulator.

 

Any thoughts?

[siteunseen]

I thought about that too and decided it was more for orientation purposes.  With the transmission mount added into the overall stability of the motor you would probably be okay doing that.

But having what little bit of peg I had left I was able to get the mounts flat on their mating mounts.  That centered bolt may need some help keeping it straight up and down was my thinking.

[siteunseen]

Whatever you decide to do, shoot the newly exposed raw metal with some spray paint to prevent future rust on the backside.

[siteunseen]

I replaced the transmission insulator too.  They're available from nissan dealerships still. P/N 11320-N3000, $75