Engine Mount Insulator - pilot hole issue?

[pogden]

I recently experienced this exact issue when installing new motor mounts on my 76. It was late at night so I don't quite remember how I did it, but I filed/Dremeled/angle-grindered maybe 1/3 of the peg away a little at a time before it finally succumbed to my BFH (well, probably my rubber mallet) and slipped into place. I think the aftermarket part is just made wrong, but the rest of it seemed identical to the original.

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[Zed Head]

I bought some of the mounts with no attached nut and did not have the problem.  But I had to supply my own four nuts and bolts, and the threads on the stud were buggered up.  Poor quality overall.  Can't remember the brand.  Maybe people could list some brands, and we'll find a good one.  Sounds like Anchor has the mismatched peg.

[Zed Head]

I'd probably go Duralast if I was going to do another.  Their transmission mount was good quality.

http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/motor-mount/duralast-motor-mount/4762_0_12553/?checkfit=true

The picture looks like site's Anchor though.

Edited July 10, 2016 by Zed Head

[siteunseen]

The Anchors were $5 or less.  Beck Arnley, around $18 IIRC.

I bought up my parts beforehand and in hindsight I realized that's not a part to skimp on, really there's nothing except maybe start up oil if you use the same head. 

I'll hopefully never have touch those again.

[siteunseen]

1 hour ago, pogden said:

I recently experienced this exact issue when installing new motor mounts on my 76. It was late at night so I don't quite remember how I did it, but I filed/Dremeled/angle-grindered maybe 1/3 of the peg away a little at a time before it finally succumbed to my BFH (well, probably my rubber mallet) and slipped into place. I think the aftermarket part is just made wrong, but the rest of it seemed identical to the original.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

BFH?  Biggest fu__king hammer?

[GV Z Car]

Mine are the dea..ground off the pilot peg completely. Driver side is up against the steering column as well. Really not a great fit.

[73str86]

I bought a set from Black Dragon a couple years ago, same issues. They gave me a refund with no issues. The auto parts store brand had the same problem. I wasn't about to grind off a steel peg that is supposed to be there. I bought some from Nissan ($$) and realized why OEM parts are so respected...they fit like a glove.

[GV Z Car]

If I could still get OEM for a 71I would.

 

[EuroDat]

I used OEM and they fit perfectly. The price was outrageous, in dollars about 250 a pair ovrr here, but the quality is far superior. If I can still get OEM, I pay the extra.

 

[zKars]

I've had the same issues. I even have seen a pair with 5/16 - 18 threads on the two welded nuts instead of M8x1.25... Lovely stuff you get now-a-days. 

[grannyknot]

2 hours ago, zKars said:

I've had the same issues. I even have seen a pair with 5/16 - 13 threads on the two welded nuts instead of M8x1.25... Lovely stuff you get now-a-days. 

Ditto, we must have ordered from the same place.

[Captain Obvious]

I just installed a pair of DEA part number A2401 from Rock Auto and I'm not impressed. I had every single one of the problems mentioned above and then some. Here's my product review:

The threaded stud out the back was longer than stock, and way longer than necessary. Not that it really causes a problem after installation other than leaving a bunch of extra exposed threads out the back of the nut to get rusty and make it harder to get apart again in the future if ever necessary. But what it does do, however, is make it so that you have to jack up the engine just that little bit more before you can slip the mount into place. I cut off the excess with a hacksaw after this pic, but here's the DEA and the OEM mounts to compare:

Next, the DEA mounts have extra rubber molded onto the top that interferes with the location of the U-shaped bracket. A little hard to tell from this angle, but you can see the corners of the rubber don't let the U bracket sit all the way down flush like it should:

I trimmed off a little of the rubber with a razor knife, and although not perfect, it fits a lot better than when I first tried. Note the angled edges of the rubber along the bottom:

And (no surprise), I also had issues with the locating pin and had to modify it to get the mount into place. I filed it as Siteunseen described above:

And then after getting the mount into place, As zKars described above, I discovered that the metric bolts that hold the engine bracket to the mount didn't thread into the new mounts. The original mounts use a M8x1.25 bolt. but the DEA mounts have a 5/16-18 thread. Not the end of the world... I had to go out and buy a new set of bolts to use, but it would have been nice to know that before I smeared the first couple threads trying to get the original hardware to work.

Lastly, even after getting the new English threaded bolts to use with the mounts, getting the bolts started was a royal PITA because the holes didn't line up well. I had to loosen up everything including the bracket that bolts to the block and still use a pry bar to wedge the parts around just to get the first couple threads started.

In the end, they're in, but it was a wholly unsatisfying proposition. I know "you get what you pay for", but if I ever do this again, I won't buy that brand. Might have been easier if I didn't have the trans mount in place and could get more movement of the engine in the bay to get things to line up, but doing it one side at a time with the trans mount connected was a bietch. Not impressed.