Adjust Door Lock Or Hinge?

[TomoHawk]

My driver's door doesn't line up on the rear edge, and it needs a slam to close it.  From the looks of the gap along the top of the window frame, I think the door is a little lower at the rear. It fails the dollar bill test.

So I have two choices, I'd say.  I can align the striker or loosen the hinge bolts and align the entire door.  Are the striker bolts usually really hard to turn?  I think I might need an impact driver to get it loose... 

For the hinge bolts, what would be the best way to  get to those?  it looks like you need to take the fender off to get to them, unless you use a universal joint on a long ratchet extension.

Or maybe a "good" body shop could take car of it more easily....  IMO, the one that painted the car last summer didn't bother to double check the doors.

[djwarner]

Please remember the window frame is adjustable as well as the latch. If the frame is tilted inward, it will compress the top portion of the gasket first and binding before the latch completely catches.

Lower the window, loosen the frame bolts and close the door. Ignoring the window frame,is the door flush with the aft body? Uniformly flush top and bottom? Is the gap uniform top to bottom? Front gap as well as the aft? If all is to your liking, the hinges and latches are aligned properly. Remember to check the dove tails under the latches.

Next, open the door and slowly close it. Stop if you feel it binding against the rubber gasket. If it is binding, rub the gasket with sidewalk art chalk and slowly close the door again, stopping when it binds. Open the door to see where it is rubbing. If by any chance the chalk made things better, you may need some dry lube on the gasket to prevent sticking. Many of the newer after market gaskets are too thick or too hard making the door hard to close. If the door is properly aligned, this may be the case and adjustment may be impossible. The OEM gaskets were quite soft when new.

When all else is done, snug the window frame bolts up, close the door and position the frame for the dollar bill test. Open the door and tighten the bolts. Check your work, windows down and then up.

If all this fails, others have written about using KIA door seals that are much softer.

 

 

Edited August 13, 2016 by djwarner

[TomoHawk]

The Kia door seal is already on the passenger door, and it fits well and the door closes easily and completely.  I'll try your suggestions.  The problem could be as siple as a misaligned window frame. 

[TomoHawk]

DJ-

From what I can tell, the window frame is aligned well.  If the top was tilted inwards, I think you could tell. If it was tilted out, I'd think it would rattle?

But I will try your suggestions on Monday, unless the barn is full of dust & trash- we're replacing the windows & doors, and doing some renovation on the inside walls.

[TomoHawk]

The window frame  doesn't move when you loosen the screws.  The screws for the striker must be frozen too.

Edited August 15, 2016 by TomoHawk

[cbuczesk]

Remove the striker from the door jam and hold the door closed. Are the body lines in alignment? If not, then adjust the door by accessing the bolts inside the kick panel area. If the front of the door isn't flush with the fenders you can add shims to move the door out. Once the door is aligned you can install the striker and get the door to close properly. The window frame is a separate problem. Lower the window and remove the door panel (IIRC). Loosen the window frame bolts at the front, inside and back of the door. Fiddle with it to get all the gaps and alignment the way you want.

Chuck

 

[TomoHawk]

How do you get to the darned screws??  You must need a specially-bent wrench.

[gwri8]

For the 280, it is recommended to remove the front fender to access the six bolts attaching the hinges to the body.  It's a Less chance to scratch all that pretty new paint.  But, you can just loosen the fender by removing the bolt nearest the door towards to top (you can see it when the door is opened) and the bottom bolt(s) under the fender behind the wheel.  Also remove all of the bolts along the top inside the hood up to the headlight. Then take a medium size screwdriver or whatever and prop the fender away from the body.  That should allow enough access to loosen/remove the six 12mm bolts holding the hinges.

If you need to access the inner bolts holding the hinges to the door, I found that a 12mm ratchet wrench works best.  You might be able to use a socket on one or two of those.

[cbuczesk]

9 hours ago, TomoHawk said:

How do you get to the darned screws??  You must need a specially-bent wrench.

What screws and what year 280Z? I was describing the 240Z which IIRC is the same hinge setup as the early 280Z. The early cars use bolts that go through the kick panel and thread into the door hinge. It sounds like the later 280Z uses bolts that pass through the hinge and screw into nuts inside the kick panel. My adjustments above will work but accessing those bolts will be a pain due to the fender being in the way.

Chuck