Alternator Issues

[Chickenman]

On 8/15/2016 at 1:45 PM, Chickenman said:

Charge and Brake lamp work perfect. I get a solid 14.3 volts at idle ( 1,000 ) RPM and 14.54 volts at 2,000 rpm.

Edit: In reply to ZH.

From Post #10. I don't know what else I can say. Everything works exactly as it should and exactly like it did before.

Don't know why it didn't work for you....

What car is that wiring diagram from in Post #9. It's not from a 1976 280Z FSM.

 

 

Edited August 18, 2016 by Chickenman
Was typing at same time Kseshler posted. Must be ESP...

[Chickenman]

12 minutes ago, ksechler said:

Guys:

First let me thank you for the replies.  I wasn't trying to start a war.  I got the alternator working last night.  My experience was that the Z Car Creations wiring does work, but the Atlantic Z Car Club does not work.  They both connect the #1 and #5 wires, but the Z Car Creations swap connects #3 to #6 while the Atlantic Z Car Club connects #2 to #3.  I don't know if there is variation year-to-year.  For what it's worth my car is a 1976.  

Glad you got it working.

Don't know why ZH conversion didn't work using the Z-Creation method. But I have a feeling the difference may be between California and Federal models and involves the Floor Temperature sensor. Federal models do not have Cats and no Floor Sensor. However, they do have a fuse ( 1 A ) for the Floor Temp sensor. I've noticed that when something in the Charging circuit fails, both the Brake light and the Charge light will come on ( no charge of course ) and the Floor Temperature fuse will blow. V/Reg was getting flaky and blew the Floor Temp fuse. Replaced fuse and car charge again and Charge lite and Brake light went out. I have a Federal model ( Car originally bought in Arizona ). Also had a rear bearing fail in a 60 Amp External Reg alternator. Shorted out the commutator and again the Floor Temperature fuse blew.

[Zed Head]

4 hours ago, Chickenman said:

What car is that wiring diagram from in Post #9. It's not from a 1976 280Z FSM.

It's from the 1982 FSM showing the common labels for an internally regulated alternator.  The subject of the post.

[Zed Head]

4 hours ago, ksechler said:

Guys:

First let me thank you for the replies.  I wasn't trying to start a war.  I got the alternator working last night.  My experience was that the Z Car Creations wiring does work, but the Atlantic Z Car Club does not work.  They both connect the #1 and #5 wires, but the Z Car Creations swap connects #3 to #6 while the Atlantic Z Car Club connects #2 to #3.  I don't know if there is variation year-to-year.  For what it's worth my car is a 1976.  

I wasn't warring just trying to get back to common forum courtesy.  Read other people's posts, consider, then reply.  CM has a tendency to repeat what's already been said like no one else is there.

When I used the zcarcreations method (see below) I noticed that either the Brake light did not light up anymore or it stayed on all the time.  So, to my mind, it did not work because I wanted a functioning Brake light.  It indicates when the engine is running in addition to brake system function  And the atlanticz method did not work either since the relay drained my battery after a couple of days.  A common problem with problem threads is figuring out what people mean when they say work or not work.  Too general.  One person's good enough is another's doesn't work.

CM's link to zcarcreations's site is the generic "how an alternator works" page, not the specific instructions that most people refer to.  With the general knowledge of what S and L mean all you need is the L wire, which is where I ended up.  Here's the specific zcarcreations page that can give poor results.  http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm

 

[Chickenman]

Sorry for Trying to help people out. I like to explain things and pick out pertinent data, not just point to links and let the person wade through data. . Sometimes people miss the points buried in links. Sometimes people don't read the links. BTW, the Z-creations page is exactly the one I referenced earlier and is quite specific to our 280Z cars. I have no idea how you consider that " Generic ". And just because " You " got poor results, doesn't mean that others have gotten the same result.

But I'm done with you. I've tried to be civil, but you Troll just about everything that I post. You have excellent knowledge on Z cars in general and I applaud you for that. But you are not as educated as you think in regards to High performance Modifications in general. You have undoubtably served the Forum very well, and have provided a lot of usefull information. But you also seem to have developed a God complex, consider yourself the sole expert on everything on this Forum and Hybrid Z. You have treated myself and others with a condescending attitude and arrogance. As a moderator you should be better than that.

From now on I will simply not feed the Troll and not respond to any of your comments. I may even decide to just leave the forums. I've got better things to do. Of course that is probably your game and I believe that I can be a value to these Forums. I've certainly never received this type of disrespectful treatment from any of the other Automotive and Electronics Forums that I frequent. Pathetic...

I'm gone.

Richard B.

 

 

[Zed Head]

Sorry Richard, but you have a tendency to bloviate. It just bugs me.  And your advice about L=F and S=N is just wrong and could lead people to problems.  So I corrected it.  

It's not trolling.  Trolls hope for a response.  I'm doing the opposite.  And I'm not a moderator, that's kind of an honorary title.  Because of my tendency to correct errors.