think this will work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-to-3-45-Degree-Reducer-Silicone-Coupler-Black-Red-/130520963545?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e63a7d9d9&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

there are other sizes as well need to confirm the IDs on the AFM and TB.

 

 

Edited August 26, 20168 yr by Dave WM

The diameter of the throttle neck is about 2 1/4" and the diameter of the AFM is about 2 5/8".  The stock connecter is a pretty snug fit.   The hose you found  go's from 2" to 3" so there would need to be a little stretching on the 2" side and some compressing on the 3" side.  

I suppose it would do if you had nothing else available as you would have to make it fit properly.  But it is not enough of a savings cost wise (about $40?) overall to justify the struggle IMO.

Edited August 26, 20168 yr by gwri8
spellin an phonics

I will prob just get the ported boot and plug it. The unported is NLA.

The ported version was introduced in 78 and they changed the tubing scheme to try to keep the AAR cleaner. I haven't investigated it, but I've heard that Nissan tried to update earlier years to the 78 style. Not sure if it was an official recall or just "while it was in here" kind of thing.

They probably superseded the non-ported version with the ported one.

I think Z car Source of Arizona may have a used one.   Worth a try.

http://www.zcarsource.com/air-flow-meter-boot-to-throttle-body-280z-75-4-77-used_8_55228_52816.html

10 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

The ported version was introduced in 78 and they changed the tubing scheme to try to keep the AAR cleaner. I haven't investigated it, but I've heard that Nissan tried to update earlier years to the 78 style. Not sure if it was an official recall or just "while it was in here" kind of thing.

They probably superseded the non-ported version with the ported one.

I've wondered about this also.  I believe it was changed it in mid 77' and I think you are right about the AAR.  Maybe they had some complaints or took note of dealer repair frequency for the FI? 

My 01/77 had been reconfigured to the new boot when I found it.  But it just didn't look right to me, kinda like a wang laying across the manifold, so I routed to back to the old way and capped the boot.  I don't know if I'll run into any problems later or not.  fingers crossed .

Before and After

 

Oil laden air from the valve cover got sucked through the AAR and gummed it up. 

 

The hot bimetal element and an electrical short may have also presented a fire hazard if not fires. 

 

Note that the original hose from the VC to the AAR has a wire brush-thingy stuck in it (Flame Arrestor).  Have a look!

Thanks for the explanation Blue.  Summation: Fire = bad.  Mine is not original so there is currently no flame arrestor. 

Now I have to go back to the un-asthetic garden hose look and try to make it presentable.  Maybe I can put a bow on it………...

Rob parts from a late 280zx.  They implemented the hose routing better.

It has brackets and solid pieces:

 

The 1 piece fuel rail is a beauty! And safer!

 

There was a TSB issued about the hose rerouting in 1977.  Apparently it was a "fix it if people complain" type of TSB, if people came in with a sticking throttle.  It's shown in Humble's Restore book.

I was able to rob hoses from a 78, will look into it. the idea of a fire under the hood is not pleasant.

Ok the plot thickens. This all started when I noticed my portless boot had a crimp in the accordion. It looks like it must have been installed that way and over time it took a set as it would not stay popped out when I removed it and tried. Its prob not a big deal I suppose there could be some restriction or turbulence but I doubt it. Of course OCD kicks in so it must be made right.  The search was fruitless for a un ported boot (new) and then that turns into how to make a ported boot work, bonus reduction if fire hazard. Fast forward to the score of the later model hoses and hardware.

But now a complication, I found an old ported boot, completely rotten and cracked up, but inside I notice a spring steel circle with some loops on the end (to prevent puncture I am sure) that fits inside the boot accordion. I try that in my unported boot and if fixes the crimp perfectly. Perhaps this crimp was a common problem and the spring steel circle was a later mod?  Anyway where the crimp had been I noticed some slight cracking just starting not all the way thru, more like rubber fatigue. I used some weather strip cement to coat this area, and reinstalled. So now the orig prob is fixed but I have something new to consider (the fire hazard of the orig design). I don't worry too much about that as I always have a fire extinguisher handy, but may still upgrade IF I come across a nice ported boot for a good price. In the mean time one more little detail I can check off.