Spindle pin lock bolt depth?

[sdyck]

Hi, I'm putting my rear suspension back together after changing bushings and struts. 

I can't find a picture in my file or on the net that shows how far you drive in the spindle pin lock bolt. Does it get driven in flush with the top of the hole? I thought maybe the torque setting would be enoug to draw it down to the right level, but the torque is lnly listed as 7-9 ft/lbs.

Thanks,

Steve

[grannyknot]

The ones I have taken apart the top of the head was flush or close to it but I would go whacking it until it was flush. A few taps and torque it should do the job.

[Zed Head]

The spindle pin has to rotate so that the slot surface is parallel with the flat on the bolt.  If it's a tight spindle pin you night have to help it.  Rotate the pin back and forth while tapping the lock bolt.  Nissan instructions assume that everything is shiny and new.

[zKars]

Pin sits flush ie all the way in. Things aren't lined up right yet.

[sdyck]

Thanks, moved things around and drove it home, took a little force at the end.  

[gnosez]

A totally unnecessary part.

[Captain Obvious]

I wouldn't call it totally unnecessary. Without it, you could have trouble keeping the spindle pin centered in the knuckle while you tightened the nuts. You would likely completely bottom out one nut before the second nut got tight. If that happens, you might not have enough threads engaged on the second nut because the spindle pin got pulled all the way to the other side.

In other words... Ten threads sticking out one side, and only one or two threads engaged on the other?

Once everything is cinched down tight and centered, the pin is not a big deal But getting to that point, it might be a bigger deal?

[gnosez]

Captain, you have an excellent point and for those with less understanding of the "why" behind that pin it is a useful item. Stock suspension, stock parts, no brainer on the install.

Me, I like a free, unrestricted suspension, that won't bind. Before the AR Z Car RCAs, I used a threaded rod on the street Z and for the race car the TTT RCAs come with a threaded rod to replace the spindle pin and a set of washers that allow for someone to input another adjustable point when setting up your ride.

 

 

[Captain Obvious]

18 minutes ago, gnosez said:

Me, I like a free, unrestricted suspension, that won't bind.

Going commando, huh?   

[Darrel]

It is that part that causes so many problems in getting the spindle pin out. When at the factory, they torque it down so much that the lock pin deforms the spindle pin at either side of the indent. With mine I can easily remove and replace the pin without destroying the spindle pin.

You can always use washers as spacers to center the pin, then remove the washers and torque the nut like normal.

[Zed Head]

I think that it's driving forces that cause the deformation.  When the spindle pin is locked, the pin and the casting become essentially one piece.  The loads of the wheel are transmitted to the transverse links (aka control arms) through either contact with the casting on one side or the nut, washer and pin on the other side.  The pin gets loaded back and forth and that load gets transmitted to the casting through the pin.  That's where the deformation comes from, I think.  That's why some spindle pins slide right out and some don't.  They both got torqued to the same spec at the factory.

If you leave out the lock bolt then the pin slides back and forth in the casting as loads shift.  Hard to tell what the engineers intended when they put that package together.  Maybe the lock pin is mainly for manufacturing ease, or maybe it has am automotive purpose.  Who knows.

[Captain Obvious]

If the spindle pin nuts are torqued down to spec, then that lock pin should see virtually no force in normal application. The inner cylinder of the control arm bushings should be pinched tight between the nut and the bottom of the strut casting and unable to rotate. And if that cylinder can't rotate because of friction to the knuckle, the lock shouldn't see any significant force. Also, the inner cylinders of the control arms should never be able to slide fore and aft inside the bottom of the strut assy. All those parts should be drawn in and locked tight together while driving. I'm no suspension guy, but I don't think that pin is deforming while driving.

I've seen upset material along the edges of the spindle pins too, but I think it might be more due to tightening the control arm nuts and pulling the spindle pin hard to one side before tightening the other side. That or beating on the spindle pin in an attempt to remove it without taking the lock pin out first.