Overheating

[S30Driver]

Great news that you have a trailer coming to take the car the rest of the way and not risk motor damage.

Pull the plugs when you get a chance to see what they look like, and look at the oil on the dipstick.  No sign of moisture on either would be good.

Best of luck to get home safely.

[ABCar]

25 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Ouch.  Two hours is about Des Moines, isn't it?  He has a situation.   So, cruising on the freeway and the temperature shoots up?  Not good.  Mine did that once but it was because a heater hose split.  Pretty obvious.  If it went two hours, you'd think the radiator and shrouding and air flow were sufficient.  Check the radiator for a plastic bag or large bird blocking air flow.  Seems more likely that the head gasket is leaking tough, doesn't it?

No Birds or bags.  Something "changed"  I watched that gauge like a hawk because I did not know the car.  It was planted in the middle like a rock...then at about two hours it went up to ~240 and stayed.  I would park and let it cool off...and even bled out some steam through the pressure release cap...and it would start stay cool for a short time...then like clockwork...would work its way up again.  I did this about three times and gave up.

Luckily a friend picked me up in his plane and flew me back. 

[S30Driver]

Not sure where you are in Michigan, there are some ClassicZ members there, amongst them is a trusted senior member @Jeff G 78.  He lives near  Northville, and could be very helpful to resolve the overheating issue.

(Glad that Trump could divert his plane off the campaign trail to come pick you up) 

[ABCar]

33 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

(Glad that Trump could divert his plane off the campaign trail to come pick you up) 

   Thanks for the reference too.  I am on the other side of the state...Kalamazoo.

Edited September 12, 2016 by ABCar

[jfa.series1]

While the radiator is a more likely culprit, don't overlook the water pump.  Just because it turns and there are no visible leaks, there might be internal damage to the impeller vanes that reduces the volume being circulated.

[Stanley]

If coolant level remains steady the gasket is probably OK, but radiator shop can test for a small leak / pressure. Easy to check for bad water pump. Let it warm up a little  and remove radiator cap. Let it idle until it gets to 180F or whenever the thermostat opens. Look in the filler hole; you should be able to see the coolant flowing through briskly. You could also feel it pulsing in the lower radiator hose, but that's not as safe to check with the fan and belts spinning nearby. If not probably bad water pump or blocked radiator. If it's blocked you might be able to feel some cool spots on the core while it's running.

How hot was the weather when it was happening ? Uphill or level ? Steady cruising or stop and go ?

[Dave WM]

One of my best tools is a rad pressure tester, great for finding leaks and testing rad caps.

[madkaw]

I'd rent the free coolant pressure tester from autozone. Run the car with it on there and if pressure starts climbing - start pulling spark plugs till you find which - if any- hole is the problem . Assuming this is a HG issue


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

[ABCar]

14 hours ago, Stanley said:

 How hot was the weather when it was happening ? Uphill or level ? Steady cruising or stop and go ?

18 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

While the radiator is a more likely culprit, don't overlook the water pump.  Just because it turns and there are no visible leaks, there might be internal damage to the impeller vanes that reduces the volume being circulated.

Weather was 75 ish steady Interstate.  It was 515 degrees f inside my head. ;

I will check the water pump.  I doubt it is radiator because it is near new I think...will still check of course

Car coming home this week...will diagnose and post final results.  Thanks all for your input.  This is a good forum from what I can see so far.