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L28 rebuild needs advice


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here's some Nissan part numbers that are still good and available.

Oil pan gasket, 11121-E3001.  $15

Rear main crank seal, 12279-2B500.  $30

Rear main crank side seals, 12289-W0400.  2 at $2 each, $4.

Turbo head bolts, short ones you need 9, 11056-P7600.  $4 each

Turbo head bolts, long ones you need 5, 11059-P7600.  $5 each

Those prices are in between list and what I have to pay, I get a discount. :)

The turbo oil pump from Advance is cast iron which will add a couple of pounds over the original aluminium but after the discount it's only about $60.  It's a Melling P/N 152.  You'll read a lot about the turbo pump is P/N 111 but I emailed their tech department and was told the pumps are the same except the turbo automatic transmission pump has a higher bypass pressure so that makes it flow more before bypassing back into the pan.  So the #152 is what he suggested that I buy.  FYI only!  I'm a shade tree mechanic with access to the world wide web, almost dangerous. ROFL

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22 hours ago, siteunseen said:

here's some Nissan part numbers that are still good and available.

Oil pan gasket, 11121-E3001.  $15

Rear main crank seal, 12279-2B500.  $30

Rear main crank side seals, 12289-W0400.  2 at $2 each, $4.

Turbo head bolts, short ones you need 9, 11056-P7600.  $4 each

Turbo head bolts, long ones you need 5, 11059-P7600.  $5 each

Those prices are in between list and what I have to pay, I get a discount. :)

The turbo oil pump from Advance is cast iron which will add a couple of pounds over the original aluminium but after the discount it's only about $60.  It's a Melling P/N 152.  You'll read a lot about the turbo pump is P/N 111 but I emailed their tech department and was told the pumps are the same except the turbo automatic transmission pump has a higher bypass pressure so that makes it flow more before bypassing back into the pan.  So the #152 is what he suggested that I buy.  FYI only!  I'm a shade tree mechanic with access to the world wide web, almost dangerous. ROFL

Thanks. This post really helps me a lot.

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I just took the Camshaft out and planning on sending them to Delta Cam for a regrind. I asked the guy and he told me a .488 lift and 230 Duration@0.050" spec fits for my street proformance build. I will need some new lash pads indeed, But I'm worried about this much lift is good for piston clearence or not. Anybody has got their camshaft regrinded by Delta? What's your suggestion on the lift or duration?

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Factory specs are 248 and .413".  230 and .488" are odd numbers.  Lower duration, with a mild increase in lift.  Something's not right there.  MSA's weakest performance cam has bigger numbers, and many say that Stage 1 isn't worth the work.  Most people say to go bigger than you'd think, the Z engines like it.  http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2001

Browse through the specs. and descriptions of their selection - type "performance camshaft stage" in to their search box.  Their cookies function won't allow a page of search items to be copied over.  Their loss.  

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Here's a couple of good reads for shorter valve seals. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/   http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68120-problem-with-viton-valve-seals/  I've read anything over .460 needs stiffer springs and the shorter valve seals.

I put the Felpro SS72686 on my stock E88 as a practice run for myself.  They're a little tricky getting them down without going too far.  I used a deep well socket that rest on the metal part of the seals and drove them down with a rubber hammer.  If you take your time there are easy, after the first one. :D 

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