Jump to content
We Need Your Help! ×

IGNORED

U-Haul car transport tips needed


siteunseen

Recommended Posts

I'm hauling a 240Z on the dual axle car transport trailer.  Someone that's familiar with those might help me out with loading tips. Should I drive it on nose first or back it on?  Is there anything I should take caution with besides the obvious?  Car has no spoiler or front air dam. 195/70-14s stock wheels and tires.  It's going to be a close fit I can tell already.  Thanks for any advice. Cliff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a whole long conversation on Hybridz about strapping the car down after getting it on the trailer.  Apparently it can be difficult to get it tied down to where it won't move, since there's no frame rails to hook to.  Also come good comments on placing the car so that the trailer is nose-heavy.  Weight on the hitch point makes it more stable.

I would think nose first.  The car's about equally balanced nose to back anyway.  I can't recall seeing any cars trailered backward although I'm sure t's been done.

I've wondered if you could get a Z inside a box truck.  Build some ramps and drive it up and in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cliff - you titled the thread as U-Haul.  Are you using a U-Haul rental?  I used one for the Memphis ZCON so I have some experience.  If so, load it nose first and be ready for some serious tongue weight.  The std. front ties will secure the car very well but I suggest you pick up two ratchet straps for the rear and diagonally secure the rear in an "X" to keep it from shifting sideways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my training in how to use one of those U-Haul trailers from Jim at Memphis 2015. After that, I put that training into practice fetching a derelict project car for my son.

Nose first. The built in harness wheel straps do a great job of holding the front end, and I don't think you really need additional straps in the rear, although they certainly can't hurt. If I were hauling something worth as much as Jim's car, I might feel compelled to use straps in the rear. I, however, was fetching something worth much much less. And I was towing with a rented U-Haul truck as well.

Their truck. Their trailer. I followed their instructions. Something goes wrong? Their problem. Mostly.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow!  Thank you guys, y'all always pull me through when I'm doing something new.  Confidence builders. :beer:

S30 Jim it's the one I'm selling.  The guy is driving over from Baton Rouge and needs to get back so he turn the trailer in and won't be charged for two days.  I'm going to meet him south of Birmingham between there and Tuscaloosa. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I helped lonetreesteve pick up a 240z earlier this year. Nose first, the standard straps on the haul trailer are fine. There should be a single chain at the rear of the trailer you can loop around one of the rear lower control arms. Just to be safe you can get a couple of straps to keep everything honest at the back end.

Make sure the receiver hitch and ball are oriented the correct way to keep the nose of the trailer from dropping down too much. Steve's suburban had the ball mounted low and there was only a couple of inches from hitting the ground with the weight of the car on it.

Make sure your tires on the tow vehicle are inflated properly. max pressure. Take to a real tire store. The coin operated ones at convenience stores are expensive, that is when you can find one that even works. Low tire pressure and the combo will wander all over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

Is he renting the trailer or you?

Yes, he rented it from here and I will load the car and meet him an hour or so down the road.  Switch it over to his truck then he's back on the road to Baton Rouge for a one way, one day rental.

 

7 minutes ago, Darrel said:

I helped lonetreesteve pick up a 240z earlier this year. Nose first, the standard straps on the haul trailer are fine. There should be a single chain at the rear of the trailer you can loop around one of the rear lower control arms. Just to be safe you can get a couple of straps to keep everything honest at the back end.

Make sure the receiver hitch and ball are oriented the correct way to keep the nose of the trailer from dropping down too much. Steve's suburban had the ball mounted low and there was only a couple of inches from hitting the ground with the weight of the car on it.

Make sure your tires on the tow vehicle are inflated properly. max pressure. Take to a real tire store. The coin operated ones at convenience stores are expensive, that is when you can find one that even works. Low tire pressure and the combo will wander all over.

I haven't even thought about checking the tire pressure on the pull vehicle.  Thank you for mentioning that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, gwri8 said:

What are you going to pull it with? I hope it's not the Camry…..

 

 

I'm using my '87 Hardbody with 350K miles on it.  SIKE!

I'VE borrowed a '14 Silverado 1500 work truck. Roll down windows with X-M radio?  Nice truck and much bigger than the 1500s he bought when I worked for him 10 years ago.  

I'm prepared for this trip.;)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 319 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.