If he's only dropping it to replace the seal he could work around it without sliding it out.  But, these simple projects almost always turn in to bigger "while-I'm here" projects.

I replaced my brake pads a short while ago and had to resist the urge to bleed the brakes and retighten the wheel bearings.  While I was there.  In and out, new pads, done.

The key to making the job easy is having the right tools to start.  A good stable lift for dropping the transmission, a way to support the back of the engine, a mallet or two for beating on things, some good prying tools. a clutch alignment tool, a way to lock the flywheel so you can get the bolts off, maybe a torch because they probably have thread locker.  

And a good step-wise plan.  There are some things that you want to plan for so that you get them right the first time.

and, something soft to lay on if you are working on concrete. your back and shoulders will thank you if you do

Edited September 29, 20168 yr by sweatybetty

+1 on the use of a lift. That's what I did, very difficult, but not impossible without a lift. I had the use of one and the owner of it to help. Still a 2 day job as I had to have the flywheel resurfaced. I just didn't want to go through the hassle of draining and removing the rad. and unhooking /rehooking everything. Just lazy, I guess. Remember to either drain the trans or use some sort of plug or you will cover your floor and possibly yourself with stinky trans lube. We use a front part of a damaged driveshaft that we removed the u-joint from...works perfectly. You will still have to remove the driveshaft, sway bar (if you have a rear bar), and the exhaust pipe. My header was in the way and we finally had to remove it, so I didn't save that much time and hassle by not R&R-ing the engine/trans as a unit. Have fun.

Cheers, Mike