N47 Head Removal Problem

[gwri8]

I'm in the process of replacing the head gasket on my 77' 280.  I've disconnected everything touching the head, pulled the exhaust an intake manifolds, got the wood shim on the timing chain placed, cam sprocket if off, removed the 14 head bolts in the proper order along with the two front 10mm bolts. The head won't budge.   I've tried putting a breaker bar in the intake and no luck.  I'm trying not to go neanderthal.  Is there something I'm missing? 

Let me add that there is evidence of prior work done with the exhaust manifold judging by the amount of red sealant and mismatched bolts holding it on (that's another story).  So I think it is safe to say the head has been off before.

[Jeff G 78]

Is it just an optical illusion that the passenger side head bolts appear to still be in place?  I know you said you removed them, but I swear I see them in the second pic.

Edit:  Nevermind... I put on my glasses and can now see for sure that they are out.  

I've had them stick, but never to the extent that I couldn't get it off without a good yank by hand.  The front small bolts are usually the culprit, but you said you got them.  

Try using a 2x4 across the car as a lever arm.  Place one end of the board on the RH strut tower top mount nuts and place a very short ratchet strap over the 2x4 with both ends hooked to the front lifting eye.  Lift the opposite end of the 2x4 up GENTLY to unstick it. 

Edited October 3, 2016 by Jeff G 78

[Zed Head]

Were any of them rusty?  Rust can lock things up.  And there are some dowels around a couple of the bolts that can be tight.  If you get any tiny gap at all you might try a lever on each end and slowly working/rocking it off.  And you can get small plastic wedges from harbor freight to hold any gaps open.  Don't stick anything metal n the gap.

[Chickenman]

PO probably used a head gasket with some sort of sealant that melts when torqued down.

Another suggestion to try. Put your breaker bar back in the Intake port and try it again. But this time have an assistant whack the front and sides of the head with a hard Plastic head hammer. The Plastic head should not harm the aluminium , but should shock the head enough to break it free. That usually works for me. Jeff's idea of the 2 X 4 sounds good as does the Plastic Wedge idea, but I've never had a head stuck on that bad. Breaker bar in a Port usually works for me....

Edited October 3, 2016 by Chickenman

[Chickenman]

Hmmmm... maybe now's the time to think about installing a nice Ceramic coated header???

[gwri8]

3 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Try using a 2x4 across the car as a lever arm.  Place one end of the board on the RH strut tower top mount nuts and place a very short ratchet strap over the 2x4 with both ends hooked to the front lifting eye.  Lift the opposite end of the 2x4 up GENTLY to unstick it. 

Thanks that was a good suggestion, I had not thought of leverage yet.

I did try it before I had to run out for a while, but alas it did not work……yet. It is a good powerful use of pressure instead of force and I might be able to improvise a little off of the approach.

Zed,  nothing rusty, however one short bolt snapped right where the threads begin. I'm guessing it's probably flush with the block.  Lucky me .

Chickenman, You are probably right about the sealant. This thing acts like nothing I've seen before. It's like it is still bolted down. I still alternate between the 2X4 and the breaker bar. I've also been using a Hard Rubber hammer.

Maybe I have to use the engine hoist next with a lift eye on the rear also along with a hammer.  I really don't have any desire for headers though, I've got 2.5" exhaust to magnaflow and that is enough for me right now.

Typical of most of the projects with this car, I think I should rename it to Gilligan.  My three hour tour is turning into long running tv series except no pretty women…….

[Zed Head]

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up.  That should pop it loose.

[sweatybetty]

34 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up.  That should pop it loose.

i have never thought of that. great idea, but i would put a couple of head bolts in just to keep the head from turning into a missile

[Zealous]

Sounds like something is stuck or rusty. I am wondering if the head gasket had gone in the past and someone used stop leak etc. If giving it a tap with rubber mallets doesn't loosen you could try lifting it with an engine hoist (if you have one) or ratchet strap from the rafters. Use the last intake stud on the driver side and one of the mechanical fuel pump bolts on the other as lift points.

[bpilati]

12 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up.  That should pop it loose.

I get your point, but probably wouldn't advise doing that exactly has you have said. It sounds a bit dangerous, and possible chance of unnecessary damage.

[Mark Maras]

14 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up.  That should pop it loose.

 Zed, Interesting idea. Kind of a cross between Myth Busters and Red Green. 

 It's possible that stretchy motor mounts are part of the problem.

Edited October 4, 2016 by Mark Maras

[Mike]

14 hours ago, sweatybetty said:

i have never thought of that. great idea, but i would put a couple of head bolts in just to keep the head from turning into a missile

Yea, not good advice.  Unless you feel like buying a completely new head, repairing cylinders/pistons/valve damage... or going to the hospital.  If you're working on the engine, I am going to assume you have the battery disconnected as a safety measure.

If you have the head bolts and timing chain removed, you can simply push back and forth on the head until she comes loose.  I've done this by pushing/pulling on the cam shaft mounts with my hands.  Do *NOT* try starting the engine with the head loose.