N47 Head Removal Problem

[zKars]

1 hour ago, gwri8 said:

Y'all mean the driver (exhaust) side for overhang, right? I don't see it on the passenger side.

[gwri8]

7 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Get a 2x4 the right length on that overhang on the passenger's side, use a floor jack and come up from the bottom?

I'd tap a putty knife in all around the head gasket to break the seal.

Thanks Cliff.  Doing it that way has opened about a 1/8" gap so far.  I'm a little hesitant about diggin' in with a putty knife just yet. I'll spray a little solvent in there and let it sit overnight.  

I'm really curious to find out what is holding it down like that.

Edited October 5, 2016 by gwri8

[Dave WM]

Scary stuff, I hope I never have to pull the heads. What do you do about the snapped bolts?

[Patcon]

18 hours ago, Dave WM said:

What do you do about the snapped bolts?

All you can do, drill or pay someone else to drill...

[Jeff G 78]

Sometimes you get lucky with head bolts.  Once the head is off, they sometimes back right out.  Soak it with penetrating oil and then drill and extract.  A good welder can tack weld a small bolt to the broken piece for removal too.

[Namerow]

On 10/4/2016 at 10:22 PM, Dave WM said:

Scary stuff, I hope I never have to pull the heads. What do you do about the snapped bolts?

I hired the services of a local specialist.  Their only business is extracting snapped off fasteners.  Primary clientele are dealer service departments.  Apparently, there are chronic, high-dollar fastener failures on certain premium vehicles to support this kind of trade.  The tech showed up at my home with a roll-in cabinet filled with specialty tools.  Job was done in 15 minutes.  Cost:  about $150.  For me, that was money well spent, as it allowed me to move on to more rewarding steps in my restoration project.

[sweatybetty]

15 minutes ago, Namerow said:

I hired the services of a local specialist.  Their only business is extracting snapped off fasteners.  Primary clientele are dealer service departments.  Apparently, there are chronic, high-dollar fastener failures on certain premium vehicles to support this kind of trade.  The tech showed up at my home with a roll-in cabinet filled with specialty tools.  Job was done in 15 minutes.  Cost:  about $150.  For me, that was money well spent, as it allowed me to move on to more rewarding steps in my restoration project.

i think im in the wrong trade.......$10 a minute

[Dave WM]

reading up I see some suggest filing the bolt flat and then using a center punch and small guide drill bit then workup to larger until just the threads are left or an extractor can work.

 think I like the others that said to file flat 1st then reinstall the head, and use a series of bushing fitted into the hole in the head as guide bushings for a series of ever increasing dia drill bits, up to a bit that will leave only the threads of the old nut. Then pick out some of the old threads with a sharp awe and then start a tap.

I suppose the key to that is to have a good supply of bushings and bits for what ever you may run up against.

[siteunseen]

On 10/4/2016 at 8:10 PM, gwri8 said:

Thanks Cliff.  Doing it that way has opened about a 1/8" gap so far.  I'm a little hesitant about diggin' in with a putty knife just yet. I'll spray a little solvent in there and let it sit overnight.  

I'm really curious to find out what is holding it down like that.

I knew you'd figure something out, 2x4 wasn't too good an example, an old shovel handle or piece of pipe fits in between everything.

I'm guessing it's the locating dowels holding it.  If you do use a putty knife make sure and go under the gasket against the cast iron block.

[Patcon]

10 hours ago, Namerow said:

that was money well spent

I would agree on that

What technique did he use?

[gwri8]

We have Separation! I was fully expecting to find a ton of red sealant but there was nothing unusual.  Maybe I need to go to the gym more often.

[Dave WM]

pls keep us posted on the bolt removal process.