Too much power for current clutch

[CooperZ479]

Literally just bought a 1972 240z with an l24, 4 speed, r200 diff swap, dual su carbs, MSA stage 2 cams and springs, and E31 high compression head, and adjustable dump valve for decibel levels. The previous owner said that the car is just barely making too much power for the stock clutch in the car. I had to drive it home from Kansas City to where I live back in Arkansas, I immedately felt the clutch start to slip once I got about 250 miles down the road, it was either on it's way out, I burned it out (doubt is the case after owning a z33 for 6 years with stage 2 JWT clutch), or it has too much power like he had said (taken with a grain of salt). What are the chances that this is the case, and if so, what clutch should I get that would safely grab any power I might be putting down? Additionally, I notice most of the slave/master cylinders are all original on the car. Car has 88k original miles on it, what brand cylinders should I get? Any input would be appreciated as this this my first 240z. Cheers.

[CooperZ479]

Meant so say adjustable exhaust flange, not dump valve, multiple builds are now running into each other in my head this late at night.

[CooperZ479]

Clutch pedal is also considerably soft compared to other M/T I have driven. Any chance the clutch/fork is out of spec?

[Diseazd]

A stock clutch is more than sufficient for your engine. You either have a worn out clutch, poor adjustment of the clutch, incorrect collar or oil on the disc. I would start with adjustment since that's a ten minute job and it's free.

[siteunseen]

Agree with Diseazed.  When I bought a 240 after owning a few 280s I was pleasantly surprised the slave cylinder is adjustable if it's still stock.  It was slipping so bad I could hardly get out of my driveway.  After reading a little I adjusted it and it would leave a little black mark on the street.  Now I have the automatic adjusting one with a 5 speed but I drove it for a year on that old clutch before the swap.  You'll need to double check by reading some older threads but I'm thinking you make the slave's threaded rod longer and the clutch pedal push rod longer as well.

[Diseazd]

Yes....If adjustable, you want 1/8 th inch play between the end of the clutch arm and the adjusting nut.

[S30Driver]

If you need parts, Zcar Depot is close by in Springfield & has everything you would need.  If the clutch turns out to be worn out, many people like Exedy clutch kits.

[CooperZ479]

Gentlemen, thanks for the input. I will try and get up under the hood shortly. Will update when I know more.

[CooperZ479]

Also, the gears grind when putting it into reverse, not sure if that has any bearing on the situation.

[Mark Maras]

Grinding going into reverse (when not moving) is usually caused by a clutch that's not fully releasing or (rarely) the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft.

[sweatybetty]

49 minutes ago, CooperZ479 said:

Also, the gears grind when putting it into reverse, not sure if that has any bearing on the situation.

just one of the symptoms. the grinding should go away once the clutch is properly adjusted

Edited October 6, 2016 by sweatybetty

[S30Driver]

 

2 hours ago, CooperZ479 said:

Also, the gears grind when putting it into reverse, not sure if that has any bearing on the situation.

Flywheel probably is contaminated & needs to be resurfaced is another possibility.