Don't the friction materials char and glaze after a few extreme slippages?  The flywheel can heat check too.  Clutch and transmission problems tend to make people angry, which leads to cursing, abuse, and more problems.

The reverse problem could just be a simple hydraulics need bleeding problem.

What brand cylinders are y'all running? I am probably going to swap them out along with the clutch and flywheel just to have ease of mind.

11 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Yes....If adjustable, you want 1/8 th inch play between the end of the clutch arm and the adjusting nut.

How will I know if it is adjustable? Just by loosening (extending) it? Like I said, I have owned the car for less than a day and am still trying to figure my way around the car locating everything. Located just about everything I need, though, as much info as possible is appreciated just so I don't do something wrong and make things harder for myself. Better to ask for help before hand rather than after..

Edited October 7, 20168 yr by CooperZ479

I know it is a bit of information to ask for, though, if I was going to buy everything for a clutch/flywheel swap, what exactly would I need given the symptoms I am coming across? Any specific brands I should shy away from and/or gravitate towards? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks gents.

16 hours ago, Diseazd said:

A stock clutch is more than sufficient for your engine. You either have a worn out clutch, poor adjustment of the clutch, incorrect collar or oil on the disc. I would start with adjustment since that's a ten minute job and it's free.

Which collar should I have theoretically? Type A or B 4 speed? I haven't been able to find the right threads on this forum yet. 

If you need a clutch (adjustment doesn't solve the problem) , you should IMO install a stock Exedy 240Z clutch pressure plate and clutch disc. You will need to have a 240Z collar ........(MSA) will know which size that is. You also need to replace the throw out bearing if you do have to replace the clutch. If it were me, I'd just use the stock flywheel (get it resurfaced). You have a type B tranny if it is the original transmission. It doesn't matter what tranny you have, if you keep the clutch and collar 240Z, you can use that combo in any Datsun tranny.....collar and clutch must match.....240Z clutch needs 240Z collar.....280Z clutch needs 280Z collar......but like I said....adjust the clutch first....see if that solves the problem.

14 hours ago, CooperZ479 said:

How will I know if it is adjustable? Just by loosening (extending) it? Like I said, I have owned the car for less than a day and am still trying to figure my way around the car locating everything. Located just about everything I need, though, as much info as possible is appreciated just so I don't do something wrong and make things harder for myself. Better to ask for help before hand rather than after..

If the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder is threaded and has a couple of nuts on it it's adjustable.  One nut is to lock the other in place.  You'll need to loosen them and use a bigger flat head screwdriver on the end of the push rod, it has a slit cut in it, turn it counter clockwise one full turn then tighten the nuts back up and drive it.  If it's worse repeat but go clockwise.  I honestly can't remember if it needs to be longer or shorter?

Good luck. 

here's the adjustable slave.  The ball goes against the fork to push it out and the extra threaded part goes through a hole in the fork.

If your clutch is slipping, it needs to be shorter. Spin it in till you've got 1/8 inch clearance (you'll feel the clutch arm loosen up) then lock it together. 5 minute job.

7 hours ago, siteunseen said:

If the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder is threaded and has a couple of nuts on it it's adjustable.  One nut is to lock the other in place.  You'll need to loosen them and use a bigger flat head screwdriver on the end of the push rod, it has a slit cut in it, turn it counter clockwise one full turn then tighten the nuts back up and drive it.  If it's worse repeat but go clockwise.  I honestly can't remember if it needs to be longer or shorter?

Good luck. 

here's the adjustable slave.  The ball goes against the fork to push it out and the extra threaded part goes through a hole in the fork.

I don't think that mine is adjustable. I only see the lock nut, no adjusting nut on the rod. Guess it is time to get the clutch replaced?

That's not the slave cylinder Cooper......it's on the side of the tranny (underneath). You need to get a Factory Service Manual (quickly)

The factory manuals are available in the downloads area of the site. I believe they are also available at "Xenon"??? (Guys)

10 hours ago, Diseazd said:

You will need to have a 240Z collar .......

.collar and clutch must match.....240Z clutch needs 240Z collar.....280Z clutch needs 280Z collar......but like I said....adjust the clutch first....see if that solves the problem.

Not to butt in, but until it's seen you can't really tell which pressure plate and collar you have.  Everything from 70-83 is interchangeable, and there's a lot of aftermarket possibilities.  The adjustable slave rod goes with the fork with a hole in it, so he could have a 280Z clutch with 240Z fork and slave rod.  So many combinations possible... 

The engines been modified for power.  Wouldn't be a surprise to find a CenterForce clutch in there.