Rear hatch seal question

[loudoun]

For those who have done this before  I am replacing the rear hatch seals on two of my Series 1 cars as a first step to try to elimate some of the exhaust fumes coming in the cabain./ Do I need to remove the interior trim to replace the hatch seal?  Is it easier with the hatch taken off?  Many thanks for the help. 

[jfa.series1]

Both the inner and outer hatch seals are far easier to replace with the hatch off.  And if you're doing one seal , do both! If you decide to so, its best to remove the hatch from the hinge and leave the hinge attached to the body.  The body attach points are where all the adjustments take place.  If your hatch aligns well with the body, don't futz with the body mount.  With a new inner seal be ready for push-back (literally) when you close the hatch - it takes a while for the seal to relax.  A slight adjustment up to the striker loop on the hatch lock is usually called for and you can adjust it down over time.

[loudoun]

Thanks Jim.  I got the inner seal;s from Black Dragon.  The outer seals were already sold out.  Do I need to remove the inner plastic trim as well?  I am also replacing the taillight seals.  One of the Z's is particularly bad with fumes, so trying the easy steps first.

[jfa.series1]

No need to remove any interior trim for the hatch seals work.  The BD seals have typically been made by PRP, will likely be a bit fat and give you the  push-back I mentioned.  For the outer seal, get the one-piece unit from MSA.

 

[Martzedcars]

Check the fitting of the seal with a (printer) piece of paper, put it on the seal and close the hatch, if it can be pulled easily away the hatch seal is not closing at that spot.. use a small and long peace of printerpaper.

[loudoun]

Thanks to all.  Very helpful.  Jim, I just ordered the outer seals from MSA.  Great idea to do them both at once.