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Fair price for a 1972 with issues


loudoun

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I just looked at a 72 and am trying to come up with a fair price and to see if it is worth the trouble.  I think the car is too good to part out.  However....

First:  the bad:  it has been crunched in the front.  The hood, front valence, and right fender are toast and the windshield is cracked.  The front radiator support is slightly bent, but looks like it could be straightened out.  The car was originally white, but is now grey, so it will require a respray. The original red interior will need new seat covers, and although serviceable now, at least the passenger floorboard will need to be replaced at some point.  There is minor bubbling around the rear wheel arches.  It does not have a front bumper and the rear one is fake.  The rear hatch lip is rough, but the owner poorly patched it with metal. 

The good: The owner has another fender and hood.  For an east coast car, the body is pretty rust free, but I am sure there are hidden issues.  The engine is original.  It has not been run in a bit, but turns.  I used a magnet over the car and did not detect bondo.  The car has a valid title as well.

What do you all think a fair price would be for the car?  Thanks!

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If it has fresh Rebello 3.1 race motor, and rebuilt transmission - abut $2500.  If it has a blown up old 2.6L engine and wasted transmission - $400.

Just kidding, kind of, but there's not enough information.  There's a guy on Hybridz selling a 1975 280Z that would probably give you a good price if you're looking for a project.  RebekahsZ.

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I watched a car on Ebay recently near the SC coast that had similar or more rust and it sold for $1,500 or so. Mechanically it was worse because all of the drive train was out and who knows what was and wasn't there. the interior was also trashed. This use to be a $400 car but not anymore. I would rather have the damage up front than rust any day. I did that to my first Z back in college, new hood and air dam and was good to go. I am sure the radiator support can be straightened unless it is really mangled. They are fairly light so it should just pull out. What is the asking price?

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Well, Mine is close to your condition-actually worse Texas car, minor rust, crack windshield, floor pan needs replace,  crush in front, bent radiator support, etc. I got it for 2200... I know it's not a nice price at all but not much people are willing to sell their car to a guy hundreds of miles away in Michigan:(. At least I got it and now I'm throwing a lot of effort into rebuilding everything... Wish you luck on that 240z and you're clever than me because you clearly did some research!

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8 minutes ago, loudoun said:

Thanks to all for the comments.  It looks like this one might be worth more in parts than as a project? 

 

 That doesn't look like a parts car to me. The severe damage is quite easy to repair especially when you have most of the parts and they're bolt on. The rad support is easy to repair (straighten or replace) when the front end is stripped. IMO, The only real drawbacks and unknowns are the extent of the bubbles (rust) under the paint and the condition of the body under the rear sill plate. (frequently nasty and or missing) That said, you know your market. It appears to me there is a shortage of parts on the east coast. You may be able to turn the parts quickly for the right price but therein lies the problem.

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It really depends on your plans, your skills, and the local market.  I'd pay more than many people would for a car with no drive train because I have extra parts and I feel comfortable doing that kind of work.  Others on the forum are more comfortable/skilled at body work, or electrical, or interior.  Some have local shops that they know of that can do certain work for a good price.  Best to put a plan together and a list of resources, with costs.  The car, like that one, is just one small part of a project.  Most of use have spent more money on parts and labor than on the original car.

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