2 4 0 Z Uh Oh Project

[wheee!]

I vote for an all inclusive build...! There is no shame in building the car YOU want.

[jwtaylor]

I want to see all the pictures.  (Secretly I have thought about doing an engine swap also.)

[disepyon]

Thanks Guys, guess I will post up LS1 related things with my project when it comes to it then.

Small update with lots of pictures.

The battery tray welded in. For now, not much else to do with the front of the car, rust repair wise.

Cleared out the back half of the cars interior, took everything out. Had a hell of time removing the antenna motor. Finally decided that the bracket had to come off. Had to remove a small bolt on the bottom, wasnt easy. Everything else pictured below came out alright. Surprised how unrusty the back of this car is except for the wheel well areas. Also, I should had removed and drained the fuel tank before doing any work to the car, now that I think it of it, there were so many instances of the car catching on fire. 

Started work on the rear passenger side quarter panel. Though I needed to cut out the inner well. I left an inch of material to give me something to weld on to. Also made sure I took good care of the passenger side inner wheel arch because I needed a template to work off from. The driver side is hacked up.

You know there is a reason why professional car restorers and fabricators hate low life cheap loosers who bondo over rusted metal and want to beat the living sh*t out of them.

loosely test fitted it to get an idea of what im working with.

Also wanted to see what my fiberglass fender flares look like. These are the Marugen Shoukai flares, supposedly to be once of the best fitted flares on the market. Seem to fit good. Will need to rotate the flare clockwise from the pictures show. Thought about make my own wide flares and even been thinking about remaking the who quarter panel. But for this car I wont, I really do like the look of these flares. I'll save making my own for another car. But I still want to try to recreate the whole rear quarter panel, will be good practice and experience, which is why you start to see a bunch of lines drawn on the car.  Just giving myself a visual of how a metal or wooden buck may consist of. 

Trying to find the crease line that runs the length of the car using string.

Used my bead roller to indent the hardly noticed crease in the Tabco panel.

crease line marked on the car.

Metal removed.

Panel all trimmed and fitted. Had to do a lot of modifying to get it to blend in with its surroundings. Did a bunch of shrinking, stretching and some wheeling. Probably not the best seams to lay a weld, but need to cover the rusted area near the fuel filler cap. Wanted to weld just above or below the crease from the original panel but was unable to.

Made a cardboard template and metal template on the contour of the rear quarter panel in some areas both vertically and horizontally to check that the new panel blends in.

I will be relocating the fuel filler cap somewhere else, stay tuned for that, have a slick and cool idea Ive seen. Stock one removed.

So earlier today I had to refill my argon cylinder. Well the guy at my local Airgas said they didnt have my size cylinder (125cf) in stock to swap out, so he said  I will hook you up. Ended up giving me a 300 series argon cylinder and charged me the price for a refill of a 125 cylinder. Since I had originally out right purchased the 125 cylinder in the past and not lease/rented, I get to keep the 300 size cylinder. Told me if you want you can downgrade to the 125 cylinder or just keep the 300 for now on. Thing is huge.

Thats all for now, stay tuned!

[wheee!]

Nice update!

[disepyon]

51 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Nice update!

Thanks

I was curious to see what the wheels I will be using look like before getting some sleep. Dogs keep getting in the way.

[Patcon]

The work looks great. I have some questions though. Someone correct me but I thought people that ran fender flairs and wider tires ended up cutting the wheel arches back or the tires will scrub the wheel arch. Is that correct?

Also the body line crease on the car is pretty distinct on the front and rear of the quarter but if I remember right it pretty much disappears above the wheel arch

[disepyon]

5 hours ago, Patcon said:

The work looks great. I have some questions though. Someone correct me but I thought people that ran fender flairs and wider tires ended up cutting the wheel arches back or the tires will scrub the wheel arch. Is that correct?

Also the body line crease on the car is pretty distinct on the front and rear of the quarter but if I remember right it pretty much disappears above the wheel arch

The wheel arch will be cut out after I get the panel welded in. Yeah the crease in the body line does fade away a bit at the peak of the arch, but since this area will be cut out/covered for the flare it wont matter in my situation. Good eye 

[Patcon]

I agree on the crease and had the same thought.

If I were going to cut them out later and with your skills I would have considered just remaking the outer wheel well to the quarter panel and not even use the Tabco wheel arch panels. It looks like the rust gave you about the right size for the flair.

[disepyon]

On 11/12/2016 at 4:33 PM, Patcon said:

I agree on the crease and had the same thought.

If I were going to cut them out later and with your skills I would have considered just remaking the outer wheel well to the quarter panel and not even use the Tabco wheel arch panels. It looks like the rust gave you about the right size for the flair.

Yeah id have to agree with you, however I want to feel like I am getting my monies worth out of the stuff I had bought, hehe. Only the replacement parts that didnt fit well I remade.

Currently trying to get the new upper wheel I bought to work with my english wheel frame, Looks like ill have to remake a new upper wheel mount plates. Will have a cnc shop make the plates for me though, to get the best precise fitment. 

This is what the new Hoosier Profiles Inc upper wheel looks like and comparison to the upper wheel that came with the Baileigh English wheel kit. The new upper wheel and lower specialty anvils I bought are hardened.

Quick sketch of how I think the upper wheel mounting plates will look like. Want to be able to use both wheels. The smaller wheel will require a spacer.

Also bought a sheet metal beating hammer with attachments.

Some specialty lower anvils, a pic showing an example of what some of them look like.

 

I need some help/confirmation.

Need to know if the front part of the quarter panels where my finger is pointing in the picture is supposed to be flush/flat along with the door or is it supposed to flare outwards?

[Patcon]

What kind of hammer is that? I haven't seen one like that before...

[disepyon]

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

What kind of hammer is that? I haven't seen one like that before...

 

 

Edited December 26, 2016 by disepyon

[SledZ]

Awesome work and glad I found the link as I am doing mass repairs myself and your pictures are my guide. I suspect you already have the answer to the dogleg question but in case here is a pic and it should be almost straight across. I am going to have to get a shot bag because the piece you made to fit below the seat belt pocket was nice! Is that what you used? I had to cut and form the one I made. Keep posting! I am contemplating the rear quarter wheel wells but super apprehensive.