justaZcarguy Posted April 13, 2003 Share #1 Posted April 13, 2003 Well here I am in Bend, OR. Approx 300 miles from home working with a friend...And Thursday I went to jump into the '71 and cruise to his place and the car wouldn't go into gear...Grind city like the clutch was not even pressed in...I looked at the master cylinder and it was low almost out...It could have sucked some air into the system. I added some fluid and pumped it up and it was better...But, if I'm at a light sometimes I need to pump the clutch several times in order for it to go into gear...I will try bleeding the system today but was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions?The clutch is self adjusting for the most part right? I know that pedal height has something to do with it but have not looked into it that far...Thanks and have a great Sunday!Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hallaian42 Posted April 13, 2003 Share #2 Posted April 13, 2003 It sounds like you have a leak. I would replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the hose. They may not all be bad. But they are cheap parts and creates extra insurance and piece of mind. :classic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted April 13, 2003 Share #3 Posted April 13, 2003 Originally posted by justaZcarguy .... Thursday I went to jump into the '71 and cruise to his place and the car wouldn't go into gear...Grind city like the clutch was not even pressed in...I looked at the master cylinder and it was low almost out...It could have sucked some air into the system. I added some fluid and pumped it up and it was better...But, if I'm at a light sometimes I need to pump the clutch several times in order for it to go into gear...I will try bleeding the system today but was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions?The clutch is self adjusting for the most part right? I know that pedal height has something to do with it but have not looked into it that far...Thanks and have a great Sunday!Brian Brian: Only the 73 240Z had self adjusting Clutch hydraulic system, so unless you or P.O. replaced the T.O. Bearing Fork and Slave cylinder with that from a 1973 240Z or later 260Z/280Z; your car does not have self adjusting capabilities.I had the symptoms that you describe on my 1972, and the cause was a leak from the rubber hose from the hard line to the slave cylinder. It had gone rotten from 30 years of exposure to everyting under ths sun. That is probably where your leak is, as the rest of the system is hard metal lines and should not degrade much over time. If your Master cyl.is getting low, you have a leak somewhere. It should be easy to find as the location of the leak will be wet with brake fluid. Look around and "touch" all connectors and fittings until you find the wet one.Another possible place for the leak is out the back of the clutch master cylinder, look in the passenger cabin under the dash at the firewall for signs of leakage.Good LuckPS I wouldn't "replace it all". That's just throwing money away. Find the problem and fix "it". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaZcarguy Posted April 14, 2003 Author Share #4 Posted April 14, 2003 Thanks Carl,It needed to be bled, I did and all is better, I will look for the leak and watch the level for sure... I love it when this happens so far from home...So then, on the adjustment, I will check my Clymer guide, but is it at the slave clyinder for the throw then????My pedal height is right on the $ at 8".Hmmmmmm. Must ponder this.And thanks also Hallaian, I checked into a master for the early cars and it's around 50 bucks. Ouch.Have a great day all....Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted April 15, 2003 Share #5 Posted April 15, 2003 Originally posted by justaZcarguy So then, on the adjustment, I will check my Clymer guide, but is it at the slave clyinder for the throw then????My pedal height is right on the $ at 8". Adjustment is at the interface of the rod at the end of the slave cylinder where it goes througt the T.O. bearing fork whcih comes out the side of the bell housing. The manual will have the specs for the adjustment. I don't have my manuals with me but as I recall, you use the nuts in the threaded rod to take all of the play out the the connection there, then back off about 1 and a half revolutions of the nut, then lock it down. PLEASE refer to the manual and don't take my word for this as I have don't have the manula here to confirm this adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hallaian42 Posted April 15, 2003 Share #6 Posted April 15, 2003 Hey Brian,If you check ebay you can find those parts cheaper. They are commonly sold on there. I got the slave and master for like 25 bucks each. I had a leak much like yours and it was hard to pin point the actual place of leak because it looked like it was comming from more then one place. I replaced the entire system along with the new performance clutch i put in. The parts appeared original and pretty tired. Considereing they were possibly over 30 years old each, I figured it wasnt a bad idea. If you do decided to replace those parts, dont forget to use those flare nut wrenches. I can't stress that enough. They saved my rear. I'm sure I dont have to tell you about that. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaZcarguy Posted April 15, 2003 Author Share #7 Posted April 15, 2003 I think that you are right on the money, I have no free play on the fork, so I'm gonna leave it alone.The power that this motor presents is a bunch and it will slip the clutch on a first gear hard hit. (not that I do it that often, after all I'm not 16 anymore. And, sorry to any 16 year olds. AND if you are 16 and own a Z, I hope you use GOOD JUDGEMENT!):stupid: And as always, have a great day!!!!Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted April 15, 2003 Share #8 Posted April 15, 2003 Originally posted by justaZcarguy I think that you are right on the money, I have no free play on the fork, so I'm gonna leave it alone. Whoa, There is supposed to be some play there. "back off one rotation and a half of the nut, then lock down". Read your manual. If there is no free play, your T.O bearing is in contact with the fingers of the pressure plate at all times and will fail prematurely. That small amount of free play is critical for the life of the T.O. bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaZcarguy Posted April 15, 2003 Author Share #9 Posted April 15, 2003 Thanks Carl, one of these days we need to meet face to face so I can buy ya a beer...Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett240 Posted April 15, 2003 Share #10 Posted April 15, 2003 hey brian just wondering, what kind of MPG do you get with the mikuni's? are they hard to keep in tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaZcarguy Posted April 15, 2003 Author Share #11 Posted April 15, 2003 I just posted a thread on this car getting 27 - 28 mpg, but it had SU's and I have no idea on needles / seats or anything...To get to your question, my '74 has the triples, I LOVE THEM!! Once they are tuned, they stay tuned. I have torn the trip Mik's down to basicall nothing to see how they operated and that was with no manual... Daring / stupid I know, but now I know...:classic: It's really easy to change the jetting on the Mik's, I have NEVER had a problem with them other than Chevron Super that was 30% water. That %$^&ed everything up.On the mileage issue, I have no idea, I was allways into the throttle and in launch mode....That car has been under the knife redoing the head since the cam gear slipped. OUCH:dead: If I ever figure it out tho I'll let you know...Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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