Datsun 240Z 1972 Restomod from Germany

[grannyknot]

1 hour ago, Radeon said:

Did you use them with original 240Z (front) Framerails? So where they long enough? Didn't get an answer from John yet!:)

I used the floor pans and floor rails from Zeddfindings then added Bad Dog rails over top of the that and the BD extension connectors behind those. Very stiff. BD rails for the 240z are about the same length as the original rails, maybe a little longer if I remember correctly and then you add the extension connector to bridge that unsupported area between the end of the floor rail and the rear sub frame.

On my xmas wish list that I posted on the refrigerator are battery powered heated socks, hopefully Santa will come through.

[wheee!]

I have a brass block for places I can access the rear of the welding location. Most of the time it is blind welds that you will be doing and those take practice and patience. Sometimes you will blow through and then it becomes a lesson in "stitching" the hole closed.

[wheee!]

... and because I live in Canada... I put a furnace in my shop before I started the car!

[sweatybetty]

on the delete plates, if you havent done the other side or the fronts, you might try welding on the inside of the body. much less grinding even if the welds are ugly, because they wont show.

[Radeon]

Hope all you guys had a lovely Christmas with your loved ones!:)

The BD connecting rails to the back should connect up to the original floor support rails. Since they are in great shape I'll just add more strenght with the connectors! If I'll even add more material to the original floor supports I shall see when I weld in the connectors, then I'll fabricate something which just has to wrap around the original floor support!:)

I wouldn't even have any space for a furnace!:D Have a tiny electric heater when I can work with a closed garage door, which again isn't possible most of the time because of space!:D

 

Welding them in from the inside and get less buildup on the outside might be a good idea for the front ones, in the back there's a support in the way to get the welding torch in properly! But since I'm a bit of a perfectionist I would still grind down on the inside as well as long as I can get to it!;)

[Alicia_Martin]

First of all Congrats for beautiful Car... It look great in blue color. I'm curious to see when its complete.

[grannyknot]

Fabian, you were mentioning a while back the poor fitting marker delete plates you are working with and I just came across these well fitting plates  http://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-side-marker-deletes

Probably too late now but I just thought I would mention it. Keep up the good work.

[Radeon]

Just edited again from my PC, now everything seems to work with the pictures!:)

 

A short little question to you guys before I hopefully will update the overall progress in a separate post very soon again!

What are you guys thinking about my lower rear hatch panel? I planned on repairing it, and not buying the tabco replacement because I thought it was easily fixable cutting the rusted area out generously. The right (picturewise) side would be easy, just one bent in the repair patch, the left side is what worries me with that recessed area, since there is rust in exactly that area.

What's your opinion? Just order the part and ship it to Germany and bite the bullet, or do you have a great tip for easily bending that recessed area?

Thank you all so much for your help!

 

@]grannyknot]: thanks for your link, totally forgot to answer you! but sadly those where exactly the ones I ordered and am not happy with. A good friend from Germany ordered exactly the same and wasn't happy with the fitment either :/.

 

NOT Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Classic Zcar Club mobile any longer!:D

 

 

 

 

Edited March 24, 2017 by Radeon
Mobile photo upload didn't work, fixed it on PC.

[grannyknot]

That's too bad about the delete plates, I have no experience with that guy I just saw how nicely fitting his pictures are on his website.

The thing about metal that is that thin from rust is it's very difficult to get a good weld on it without blowing holes in it and the more you cut out the bigger the job of trying to match the original stamping curves. It depends on how original you want the car to look when it is finished. I have done that rear hatch deck panel twice now, one I patched and one I replaced.  I was not happy with the look of the patched one even after lots of grinding, filling and sanding, the replaced panel looks great, hard to tell it from the original.  Looking forward to your update!

[sweatybetty]

i also replaced mine with the tabco. it did take some trimming to get the correct fit, but it looks and fits well

[Radeon]

I also have the door panels from Skillard, not yet fitted, but the finish on them looks very nice! Maybe he has a second revision for the delete plates already!

I just decided to order the Tabco replacement panel, I think its the best route, and I won't be pissed at me everytime I open the hatch in the future, if I hadn't done a good enough repair job! Did you drill holes throu yours to plug weld the panel in, or did you have an actual spot welder on hand?

I also ordered the front bad dog frame rails, since I wasn't happy with the way mine turned out. Already lost way to much time on mine, the investment back in late December would have been way better. But one always learns I guess!:D

Have a great start into the new week!:)

[grannyknot]

4 hours ago, Radeon said:

Did you drill holes throu yours to plug weld the panel in, or did you have an actual spot welder on hand?

I had the car on a rotisserie so could weld from underneath on the inside and outside of the car, also a few tack welds around the outside of the panel that was hidden with seam seal.