Front injector bank not firing (1976 280Z)

[Zed Head]

Just for fun, you might take the ECU cover off and make sure the transistor wires are intact, and/or not shorted.  The ECU location can get moist if a leak develops at the windshield.

I actually have some part numbers for a replacement transistor and did replace both on a bad ECU.  But probably for the wrong reasons, they tested okay afterward.  It was probably something else.  Your situation though, with three dead injectors, looks like maybe a single transistor or its wiring.  

[NicholasKoenig]

29 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Just for fun, you might take the ECU cover off and make sure the transistor wires are intact, and/or not shorted.  The ECU location can get moist if a leak develops at the windshield.

I actually have some part numbers for a replacement transistor and did replace both on a bad ECU.  But probably for the wrong reasons, they tested okay afterward.  It was probably something else.  Your situation though, with three dead injectors, looks like maybe a single transistor or its wiring.  

It's worth a shot, although I wouldn't really not what to look for. Burned connections, corrosion? I'll take it out tomorrow.

Could you send the part #? May be a better alternative in my situation as you mentioned. 

[NicholasKoenig]

53 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

I would put an add in the classified section of this forum, never know what you might find. I had one that got another member out of a jamb. You might be as lucky.

I like MSA but sometimes their prices are.......

Although I'm new to Zs, I've already done some shopping around for parts and what not. I too noticed their prices are jacked. 

That considered, once you deduct the 200$ core charge, the re manufacturered ECU comes to $125. And that is cheaper than other remans I've found which seem to go for 200-250. 

Thanks for the classified tip! 

[Zed Head]

13 minutes ago, NicholasKoenig said:

It's worth a shot, although I wouldn't really not what to look for. Burned connections, corrosion? I'll take it out tomorrow.

Could you send the part #? May be a better alternative in my situation as you mentioned. 

I'll dig up the number.  The connections from the transistor pins to the board are fairly fragile looking metal ribbons.  Very easy to see, the two transistors are on the top edge of the assembly.  ~Quarter-size.  I could see one of the ribbons getting damaged if somebody poked around in there.  You never know.  

Besides that, you'll want the part number for the ECU.  There are several.

[Zed Head]

Post #37 here has the part # for the transistor - http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56143-super-rich-plugs-fouled/?page=2

You can also read our past ramblings, insights, and conclusions about ECU problems.  Might be entertaining.

 

[NicholasKoenig]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Post #37 here has the part # for the transistor - http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56143-super-rich-plugs-fouled/?page=2

You can also read our past ramblings, insights, and conclusions about ECU problems.  Might be entertaining.

 

Thanks I went through the thread. 

Part # for the transistor is "NTE247", for the convenience of any readers out there with a similar situation as myself. 

Now I know what it looks like, I'm actually exited to take out the ECU tomorrow and see what is going on in there. 

Attachted picture for reference. 

[rcb280z]

That is a good price actually for the ecu from MSA if you end up going that direction. I seem to always forget about the core charge.

Hopefully you find its a simple repair and don't have to buy a ecu. I on the other hand am ignorant when it comes to electronics. But it does sound kinda exciting to open one up just to look inside, hmm....

Looking forward to see what you find. Good luck.

[Zup]

Hey Nicholas,

Welcome---glad you are here!

A good friend of mine, and fellow www.classiczcars.com member, S30driver (Jim Smirlies---one of the many Jims) contacted me about your problem.

I may have a good ECU at the NWA south garage in storage.

Jim has offered to do a test of the ECU on his 280z to ensure that it is functional.

If your exploratory surgery of your ECU and the pending transistor transplant doesn't pan out, give me a shout and we'll try to get you going.

Just post up the number from the case of the faulty ECU so we can check it against the one's we have in storage.

Edited November 17, 2016 by Zup

[NicholasKoenig]

27 minutes ago, Zup said:

Hey Nicholas,

Welcome---glad you are here!

A good friend of mine, and fellow www.classiczcars.com member, S30driver (Jim Smirlies---one of the many Jims) contacted me about your problem.

I may have a good ECU at the NWA south garage in storage.

Jim has offered to do a test of the ECU on his 280z to ensure that it is functional.

If your exploratory surgery of your ECU and the pending transistor transplant doesn't pan out give me a shout and we'll try to get you going.

Hey, thanks for the outreach. 

I will keep that in mind as I'm definitely heavily considering getting another ECU anyway. 

Not selling myself short but I have some reservations on my ability to fix the ECU and have it remain fixed haha. 

Edit: I'll be able to take the ECU # down tomorrow for sure 

Edited November 17, 2016 by NicholasKoenig

[NicholasKoenig]

30 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

That is a good price actually for the ecu from MSA if you end up going that direction. I seem to always forget about the core charge.

Hopefully you find its a simple repair and don't have to buy a ecu. I on the other hand am ignorant when it comes to electronics. But it does sound kinda exciting to open one up just to look inside, hmm....

Looking forward to see what you find. Good luck.

Thank you. I predict I'll pop the cap off. Wiggle some stuff and stare at it for a few minutes. Pack it all together and see if it starts again! 

Im on the cusp of getting all 6 cylinders to fire, I can feel it. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like when all of them actually fire.

Nearly had the Z one month! 

[Captain Obvious]

I would try to source a replacement ECU before I would try a component level repair on the old one. Those kinds of repairs sometimes spiral into unexpected complications and I wouldn't try it unless you had verified the failure first and had a backup plan in place.

I've got a spare ECU (from a 77) if you just wanted to try one to see if it fired all six injectors. I was told that it gets squirrelly on hot days after it heats up, and I have verified that it tests fine on the bench when cool. Would work at least to confirm that your ECU is the problem.

[NicholasKoenig]

6 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I would try to source a replacement ECU before I would try a component level repair on the old one. Those kinds of repairs sometimes spiral into unexpected complications and I wouldn't try it unless you had verified the failure first and had a backup plan in place.

I've got a spare ECU (from a 77) if you just wanted to try one to see if it fired all six injectors. I was told that it gets squirrelly on hot days after it heats up, and I have verified that it tests fine on the bench when cool. Would work at least to confirm that your ECU is the problem.

Awesome. I'm in NE Philly myself. 

Took the ECU out to get some photos and take a peak. I don't know what I was expecting but I popped it off and instantly realized I have no idea wth I'm looking at haha. 

Nothing seemed loose or disconnected. Maybe some dirty stuff that built up by nothing stuck out. The transistor connections looked ok but they still may be at fault for all I know. 

ECU Part # K11-600 000