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My PO did the same thing with the slight single outward flare on the fuel lines and it was a pain in the tuchus. Difficult to get the rubber started over the flare, and cut up the inside of the tube over time.

What I found worked a lot better was partially formed bubble flare. Do step one of a bubble flare, but don't push it out quite as far. Just enough to get a bulge that will keep the hose clamp from slipping off.


Yup, like that. I would go a little more with the bulge. Essentially do what you can try to recreate the shape of the bulges on the original fuel and coolant lines.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what process was used to form the original bulges? Were they hydro-formed?

The tool to form that ridge is called a beading tool.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=AP145

 

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OF course there are a hundred DIY tools on Utube...

 

Edited by zKars

  On 12/18/2016 at 9:55 PM, Patcon said:

I wouldn't think they roll beaded small diameter stuff. No way to insert an anvil on the interior side of the pipe... I would suspect some kind of flair process...

The ATS tool I linked to goes down to 1/4" tubing. I guess that leaves out 3/16, but I would think that would be small enough for our uses.

I bought the graham small tool for 1/4 and 5/16. Works just great. Sorry Wheee! You're not borrowing from my crib!

http://www.grahamtool.com/smalltubebeadingtool.aspx

Edited by zKars

I have made two bead rollers like that with vice grips, a 2.5 inch exhaust clamp bracket, and a machined washer. it's probably the most useful tool I built for under 8 dollars, and it's well worth the 2 minutes of welding required to get it set up. the part that takes the longest is dragging the welder out and finding a space to lay everything on to start welding.

 

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