Looking for advice on replacing all the hard brake lines

[grannyknot]

14 hours ago, Careless said:

I have made two bead rollers like that with vice grips, a 2.5 inch exhaust clamp bracket, and a machined washer. it's probably the most useful tool I built for under 8 dollars, and it's well worth the 2 minutes of welding required to get it set up. the part that takes the longest is dragging the welder out and finding a space to lay everything on to start welding.

 

Well now you have to show us, what's that forum saying, "Pics or it didn't happen"

14 hours ago, Careless said:

The left looks like a JIC flare / AN Steel.

What is the thread of the slave clyinder side? If you want to match to the master cylinder side, you have options:

http://www.brucesspeed.com/brakeadapter.aspx

 

The thread on the slave is metric, M10x1, the thread on the Tilton M/C is 3/8"x24 and the fitting on the left of that pic is the 3/8"x24 to M10x1 adapter but it extends the clutch line out another inch and then intereferes with the washer bottle.  I was hoping to do it with one fitting, I guess I'll just have to shave more off of the washer bottle mount.

Thanks

Edited December 20, 2016 by grannyknot

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah. Pics or it didn't happen.

Have you ever tried using stone knives and bearskins? 

[Patcon]

The Graham tool looks like it is almost moving metal from between the rollers to the bulge area. There appears to be a step behind where the tools runs on the vise side where it thinned the metal. That's an interesting tool but I would be hard pressed to use it enough...

[Careless]

On 12/19/2016 at 8:14 PM, Patcon said:

The Graham tool looks like it is almost moving metal from between the rollers to the bulge area. There appears to be a step behind where the tools runs on the vise side where it thinned the metal. That's an interesting tool but I would be hard pressed to use it enough...

It does decrease the outer diameter of the tube for a short length, but for a field repair it's suitable. one would just have to slide the hose on further down to the section with the original ID and use two hose clamps. one at the end, and one behind the barb. In most cases, the single clamp behind the barb should be enough, though.

 

[Careless]

On 12/19/2016 at 7:29 AM, grannyknot said:

Well now you have to show us, what's that forum saying, "Pics or it didn't happen"

The thread on the slave is metric, M10x1, the thread on the Tilton M/C is 3/8"x24 and the fitting on the left of that pic is the 3/8"x24 to M10x1 adapter but it extends the clutch line out another inch and then intereferes with the washer bottle.  I was hoping to do it with one fitting, I guess I'll just have to shave more off of the washer bottle mount.

Thanks

I'll have to see if it's in the garage or if I lent it out. it worked on my 1.5 inch coolant tubes too, even though the bracket was for a 2.5inch exhaust, which I used for my 2.5inch IC piping on the 'ole Z31 Turbo.

RE fitting issue: Get an M10 banjo to M10 inverted flare fitting from a Mazda Miata brake master cylinder, circa 1998. It will work on a 3/8-24 banjo bolt, they're interchangeable with M10 banjo bolts as far as the banjo seal goes.

This will let you go M10 all the way to the slave cylinder. Had to do the same on another vehicle with a Girling slave cyl and we ran into the same issue you're facing now with the washer bottle- but the strut tower was in the way, so it was the best option.

Love that flaring tool, btw. My friend has one, and its a joy to use.

 

 

Edited December 21, 2016 by Careless

[grannyknot]

Just thought I tie up this thread with a nice bow, the flaring tool from Eastwood is a dream to use as is the Cunifer brake line. The only draw back is now I have one more thing to polish cause there is no way I'm letting this bling go dull.  Not a big deal really, a bit of 0000 steel wool and it's gleaming.

[sweatybetty]

whats the blue thing downline from the prop valve?

[Captain Obvious]

Those lines look great. My PO redid mine and didn't do a great job like you have. I wish mine looked like yours!

And it looks like your straightener did a great job as well. The straight sections look.... straight!

[grannyknot]

22 hours ago, sweatybetty said:

whats the blue thing downline from the prop valve?

It's a Wilwood 2lb residual pressure valve, it will keep 2 lbs of pressure in the rear brake lines so the pads are right up next to the disc, the parking brake mechanism on the rear calipers only moves one piston 1/10th of an inch so I want to be able to take advantage of all of that movement. The archives have many threads on rear calipers change overs reporting lousy parking brake action so just trying to be proactive.

CO, the Cunifer brake line is so malleable I didn't use my contraption much, I pretty well bent it all by hand.

[Patcon]

Wanted to tag onto this instead of starting a new thread.

I am looking at doing the same thing. It's time for me to get the hard lines back on the car. I have the original lines and could probably reuse them but I would want to get them plated and that sounds like a pain. I was thinking of going with the Fedhill line too for the brake and fuel lines. I have some from an earlier project and I would shine it up like you have. 

Does anyone have any thoughts on protecting the lines after shining them? Eastwood diamond clear? Sharkhide?

Also @grannyknot how many feet did it take for the brake lines and the fuel lines?

The brake lines are 3/16", correct? What about the two fuel lines?

[grannyknot]

16 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Also @grannyknot how many feet did it take for the brake lines and the fuel lines?

The brake lines are 3/16", correct? What about the two fuel lines?

The brake line, 3/16"I bought from Fedhill in a 25' roll of Cunifer, now that's just enough to do all the brake lines but you mustn't waste more than 4-5" or you won't have enough. I wanted the clutch hard to look the same as the brake lines so I had to retrieve one of the rear brake lines that I threw away and repair the end.

The fuel line I bought a roll from my local NAPA and it has a O.D. of .315"

[wheee!]

I used 5/16ths for the fuel lines. From www.Thestopshop.com