Looking for advice on replacing all the hard brake lines

[Patcon]

Thanks, Chris. I have about half a roll here so I should be good with 25'. Any idea how many ends you used?

@wheee!

Is this the same as the factory EFI sized fuel lines? I was thinking I would go ahead and install an up sized line for any possible future EFI options. Did you do both the supply and return the same size?

[wheee!]

I can’t remember how many ends I used but it was about 16 I think. The brake and clutch line is 3/16”, the fuel feed and return are 5/16” and the return vapour line is 1/4”

If you upsize the feed and return line to 3/8”, you will need to modify your retaining brackets and rubber isolators. I stuck with stock size.

 

[Patcon]

Are the stock isolators large enough to accept a 3/8" line?

[grannyknot]

19 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Are the stock isolators large enough to accept a 3/8" line?

No but I clamped the rubber isolators together and ran a drill through the hole, I think I ordered 20 end pieces didn't want to be short. I also put a female/female connector in the middle of the long brake line so I could concentrate on getting the bends nice presentable in the engine bay, dealing with long piece was a pain.

Have you got a flaring tool yet?

[Patcon]

40 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

No but I clamped the rubber isolators together and ran a drill through the hole, I think I ordered 20 end pieces didn't want to be short. I also put a female/female connector in the middle of the long brake line so I could concentrate on getting the bends nice presentable in the engine bay, dealing with long piece was a pain.

Have you got a flaring tool yet?

Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I was wondering if the rubber was large for me to drill it out to 3/8" (sounds like what you did) and it still be isolated?

I don't have a good flaring tool yet. I am planning on getting the Eastwood with 45d dies. I like to buy my own Christmas presents. Bad but true...

[Patcon]

On 12/10/2017 at 6:16 PM, Patcon said:

Does anyone have any thoughts on protecting the lines after shining them? Eastwood diamond clear? Sharkhide?

Anyone?

[Namerow]

I took a kind of pragmatic approach for this job.  I dipped a lint-free cloth into clear gloss enamel and then used the paint-soaked cloth to coat the lines.  I held the cloth stationary in one hand and dragged the line through the cloth.  It turned out a lot better than I thought.  In fact, I don't think I could have got a better result with a spray gun.  Very little prep work required, good coverage,  and no mess to clean up, either.  Only one coat required.  That was two years ago, and the lines still look great.

[Patcon]

Thanks for the response. That is a good idea...

[Patcon]

On 12/16/2017 at 2:56 PM, Namerow said:

I took a kind of pragmatic approach for this job.  I dipped a lint-free cloth into clear gloss enamel and then used the paint-soaked cloth to coat the lines.  I held the cloth stationary in one hand and dragged the line through the cloth.  It turned out a lot better than I thought.  In fact, I don't think I could have got a better result with a spray gun.  Very little prep work required, good coverage,  and no mess to clean up, either.  Only one coat required.  That was two years ago, and the lines still look great.

What did you shine the lines with? Steel wool?

[Namerow]

23 hours ago, Patcon said:

What did you shine the lines with? Steel wool?

I used a foam-backed woodworker's sanding pad.  Grit was probably 400 or a bit higher (but prob. coarser than 600).  The foam backing was about 3/16" thick.  I found it more effective to use than regular sandpaper because it seemed to conform to the curved surface of the tubing better.  Just wrap it around the tube and have at it.  The end result was a nice, silver sheen that didn't need any further work with, for example, steel wool.

I just wiped down with wax-and-grease remover, then applied the clear coat.

You can work the abrasive lengthwise over all but the last inch or so of the tubing run.  When you get in close to the end fitting, you have to go with a different approach.  Try cutting a few strips of sanding pad that are about 1/2-inch wide and 4 - 5" in length.  If you can figure out a way to support the loose end of the tubing, you can then do a cross-wise push-pull with the sanding strip.

I found that the sanding surface loaded up pretty quickly.  I also found that the stuff coming off the outside of the tubing was pretty evil.  Regardless of whether you go with sanding grit or steel wool, make sure you protect your lungs with a good particulate mask.

Edited January 21, 2018 by Namerow
picture and new comments added

[Patcon]

54 minutes ago, Namerow said:

I used a foam-backed woodworker's sanding pad.  Grit was probably 400 or a bit higher (but prob. coarser than 600).  The foam backing was about 3/16" thick.  I found it more effective to use than regular sandpaper because it seemed to conform to the curved surface of the tubing better.  Just wrap it around the tube and have at it.  The end result was a nice, silver sheen that didn't need any further work with, for example, steel wool.

I just wiped down with wax-and-grease remover, then applied the clear coat.

You can work the abrasive lengthwise over all but the last inch or so of the tubing run.  When you get in close to the end fitting, you have to go with a different approach.  Try cutting a few strips of sanding pad that are about 1/2-inch wide and 4 - 5" in length.  If you can figure out a way to support the loose end of the tubing, you can then do a cross-wise push-pull with the sanding strip.

I found that the sanding surface loaded up pretty quickly.  I also found that the stuff coming off the outside of the tubing was pretty evil.  Regardless of whether you go with sanding grit or steel wool, make sure you protect your lungs with a good particulate mask.

Thanks,

I ended up using #0 steel wool. It worked really well but it does tend to turn your hands black. I wiped them down Eastwood Diamond clear. We'll see how they hold up...

[Namerow]

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

Thanks,

I ended up using #0 steel wool. It worked really well but it does tend to turn your hands black. I wiped them down Eastwood Diamond clear. We'll see how they hold up...

Did I remember to say, 'Wear gloves, too?'