Fuse box melt prevention?

[Inf]

I just got this fuse box to replace my melted fuse box in my 72 from Rick Hanson at hmsports.com (smooth transaction, good deal!).

I figure from my observations, and from reading other posts on this site, that the reason my current fuse block started to melt was because the contacts became corroded which caused them to create resistance, which then generated heat.

I was pretty lucky to be able to find one that was not melted and didnt seem to have a corrosion problem, I may not be so lucky 10 years down the road if this box has the same problem. so, other than the obvious of cleaning it up, are there any things that any of you could recommend to prevent this problem from occuring again?

I uploaded 2 photos (front and back) of the fuse block to my gallery and should show up as soon as they get approved.

Thanks!

Andrew

[2ManyZs]

I take it the melted ones were for the headlights? Usually these are the first ones to go...

Best bet is to thoroughly check out all the wiring to the headlights, which mean pulling apart, checking, cleaning of all the connectors. Usually the ones in the front, in frontof or under the radiator support get water and corrosion inside them, which causes the headlight circuit to build up heat in the fuse block due to the increased resistence caused by the corrosion.

Yes, clean and check the solder joints under the "new" fuse block, and clean the fuse clips with emery paper as well....

[Inf]

The plastic around the left headlight fuse clip was melted slightly, but this was not the one giving me the problem, and didn't became hot while using the headlights so I think the previous owner had this problem fixed at some time.

The fuse for the tail lights and side markers was the one which was the REAL problem. The block had melted so badly that the connector was hanging loose in a wide hole in the plastic. This became VERY hot apparently. I didn't notice when I first got the car since I did not do any night driving, but when it came time for inspection and I had the lights on for a few minutes, smoke began to rise out of the fuse box! Thank goodness I was paying attention...

Andrew

[2ManyZs]

Pull the side marker lights off the body and you will find they have bullet connectors covered in a rubber or plastic. More than likely one of these has gotten full of moisture. Same procedure as the headlight circuit, check all the connections, and clean them and make sure they are sealed as the side marker connections are in an open area behind the fenders and quarters where they are susceptible to water infiltration.

[N5572B]

Z car garage as a pretty good idea for fixing part of the fusebox/wiring problem and you might want to check it out.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html

I have the problem in the rear light circuit but somebody kept putting bigger fuses in and/or something solid and cooked the fuse box alon with all the wires back to the rear...part of the reason mie is still in the prject stage.

Cheers,

Dave in Paradise

71 240 project

[Inf]

I read what was on the z garage website, and I think I will do that as well as it can't hurt (so long as I am careful and don't melt the box with heat from the iron).

I will also pull off the side markers and check those connections out, just to be on the safe side and since I am curious about what previous owners have done to the unseen wiring.

Thanks for the recommendations! This site is the best!

Andrew

[EScanlon]

The fuse box connections at the back part of the box usually have a protective film on them that causes solder NOT to sweat the joint properly. You'll end up overheating the connection and melting the plastic if you're not EXTREMELY careful. Also having some of the wires right there, it's possible to melt the insulation on them.

I tried the solder method and decided to quit before damage ensued.

The biggest problem with the fuse box is that the connections from back to front are RIVETED. You could just tap the ones you perceive are loose, or if you're careful you could give ALL of them another whack with a hammer and punch and you'll reduce the resistance there.

Another point, look at the picture you posted showing the front with the fuses.

The Lower Right fuse is not centered in the holder. This will also increase resistance, not a lot, but an increase nonetheless.

The Middle Right fuse is showing that the holder has overheated, (the brass is darker) be sure to clean the holder well. One real easy way of doing this is to get a small pair of hemostats and clamp a small piece of steel wool in the jaws and twirl the steel wool inside the clamps. Another tool can be obtained from a hardware store, they're called contact cleaners and are just a bunch of fibreglass strands wrapped in a "pencil"

The Top Left is showing RUST! Another item that will increase resistance in a circuit.

IN a nutshell, take ALL the fuses out, and do a continuity check on them. I've said this time and time again, don't just VISUALLY check them. Yes, that's how fuses are supposed to be checked, and if they're blown that's correct, BUT these glass fuses were and are NOTORIOUS for loose end caps, and broken connections inside the cap.

Personally, I wouldn't try to re-use fuses in a fuse box regardless of where I got it, UNLESS it was a brand new in the box. Even then I would do a complete check on them.

Rick has some excellent parts, and it's obvious you got an excellent fuse box, but the fuses are a very minor part of it. Pitch them, and start with new ones that you put in AFTER you clean the contacts and tighten the rivets.

2¢

[Mike]

Can you still buy new fuse boxes? I had one ordered many years ago and I never went to pick it up. Poor college student, was I.

[louisf]

Can someone explain the wire fix that is explained in the Z Garage. The diagram is pretty basic and Im not sure if it is showing just half our 2 column box. Also it looks like your photo in your gallery has plates that would seem to do the same thing as the new soldered wire.

[Inf]

MSA has them listed for ~$88 in their catalog.

The fuses in the picture came with the fuse box and I already bought new ones since they are so cheap at the parts store.

[Marty Rogan]

The last issue of Z Sport Magazine had an article on fixing the fuse box. Highly recommended reading! What they did to solder the rivets, was to pull the whole copper strip, with fuse holders out of the back of the box. that way you don't have to be concerned about melting the plastic. they also replaced the wire plug ends with new ones to get abetter connection. This issue alone was worth the subscription price, if you don't get it already.

Marty

[EScanlon]

I also question the adviseablity of soldering down one side and therefore joining all those wires into ONE circuit. I don't think there was much thought put into that, as one of the main problems the Z has is in trying to trace down electrical troubles.

Personally, if soldering was deemed a MUST, I would only solder where the connections are already made, and not introduce new wiring into the wiring harness without first investigating it thoroughly.

2¢