Well it looks like I'll be pulling the pan next week. I have a pretty good leak that I made worse by tightening down on the pans bolts. Hopefully I didn't go to far as to "dimple" around the bolt holes. I plan to jack all four corners as high as I can get them off the garage floor, so I can fit my beer belly under there . Drain oil, of course, letting it drain overnight. I read somewhere to set timing about 90 degrees before or after TDC. It's supposed to set the front crank counter weights up in the block allowing the pan to drop easier. We'll see. I ordered the competition gasket from MSA. They said I can put it on dry, no sealant. Anyone else use this style gasket? It's made of the same stuff as the competition valve cover gasket. There's a couple other things I believe I have to do to get this pan free. Remove the U clamp from the steering rack, and a couple bolts on the flywheel cover. I can't think of anything else right now. Oh, I'll be checking the mounting surface for any imperfections.

It's probably going to take a whole day just to clean all the gunk this leak has created over the past couple of years. It's a disgrace really. 

Guess I should get some gloss black for the pan, make it look good again. 

Anyone have any advise or suggestions, I'm all ears.

Edited December 5, 20168 yr by rcb280z

Luckily my block is out of the car and the pan will be easy access... Interested to see how your gasket works. As for paint colour, I am tempted to chrome powder coat mine, just to keep an eye out for leaks

If you have one or can borrow one, a 4" bench vise worked great on my dimpled pan.  Get an inch/pound torque wrench from a chain parts store's loaner tool program if you can, that's where I messed up.  I used my foot/pound set on 5 then 7.5 then 10, leaked like crazy at the front corners where I tightened too tight.  After getting the inch/pound wrench I ended at "84 or 7ft./lbs.  I used a Nissan gasket though, maybe different on those red ones from MSA?  The longer bolts go over the flat metal rails.  

Good luck, don't eat a big breakfast.  

I was thinking of painting the pan the same color as the block just for that reason, to see oil leaks. But I'm not sure it'll look that good the same color. 

Yep, I have the bench vise and inch torque wrench. I better check with MSA on how tight on the bolts for the comp gasket, not sure but probably the same as the Nissan one. 

Light breakfast, then beer when done.

I painted mine the same as the block and didn't like it, went back to matte black.  Too much blue but I was looking at mine on a motor stand, you can hardly see it installed with the hood up looking down.  

Question: what in the world is that big yellow and black thing behind your car?  Fumigating a house?  

This is my pan in factory engine block blue.  Nissan painted them in gloss black.  Your car - your choice.  A matte finish will tend to hold dirt and grease, I recommend glossy no matter what color you choose.

Me like! Thanks for posting the pic Jim. 

Yes I agree, that looks good in the car.  Here's what I was looking at maybe a little too long.

is there an easy to follow write-up available for the dreaded oil pan pull? I don't need to do it to mine yet, but if the process is not too difficult, if like to try it.

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I've read a couple "tips" threads on it but nothing with a step-by-step how to. Not saying there isn't such a thing just that I haven't found one. Doesn't seem as if it would be difficult just time consuming. I'll post my procedure when done.

sweet. much appreciated

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I paid to have mine done last year along with a rear seal. I do recall laying under the Z thinking  "Now, how am I going to do this?".  I had one of those moments when it occurred to me that I had stretched my learning cure a little too far.  So I punted…..

I'll be following this thread.

Edited December 8, 20168 yr by gwri8
diction and ebonics